Aftermarket front recovery points for 150 Series

[Bugswatter]

Can you give me a price to send to WA metro, also ETA.

Thanks

Hi Amts

Are you selling recovery points for the 150, if so how much and what do you get and are they painted?

Thanks

They are on order now. They are zinc plated and then powder coated red. Grade 12.9 bolts are supplied along with the nut plate on a tail.

[Bugswatter]

Hi Amts

Are you selling recovery points for the 150, if so how much and what do you get and are they painted?

Thanks

[peter_mcc]

Fitted a set of Roadsafe recovery points yesterday on our stock facelift GXL with no bullbar - took about 30mins. 5 mins of stuffing about with the first one, 5 mins to go back to my computer to read this thread again and see how other people did it then 20mins to put them both on - would have been quicker with a ratchet socket/spanner instead of a normal ring spanner!

On the passenger side I had to put 2 extra flat washers under the plate at the bottom so it cleared a weld. Drivers side was ok.

My instructions said they should have 3 bolts per bracket - how is that possible without drilling the chassis? There isn't a hole where the extra bolt should go. They also supply '6 nuts on wires' but I only needed 2.

[vxdaz]

Just posted this on the "what did you do to your Prado today?" thread but here is my experience in more detail. Any advice for improvement next time is greatly appreciated!

I'm not an engineer and only semi-handy with a socket set and spanner. I didn't remove any wheels though it would be easier had I done so.

I decided to put Roadsafe recovery points on my 2014 VX Prado after reading how (supposedly) easy it was on this thread. I clearly missed Fidos thread with all the challenges had there with these points and a TJM 13 bar on a KDSS equipped vehicle.

TJM T13 Bar was the challenge due to the different size bolts used at the front of the recovery point (very easy - thanks to TJM and Roadsafe for making it so) and the rear of the recovery point...

So
After many a search on pradopoint on pics and advice, mrrandom's pics and description helped me comprehend the most what was going on inside that chassis with the way TJM did things.

Passenger side
1. Undo front bolt and directly replace with Recovery point and 12.5 bolt supplied by Roadsafe. Too easy - wish it was all like this. I thought it would be but 7 hours later - remember I'm not that handy - the entire job was done.

2. Now the "back" of the recovery point where all the challenges start;
My lessons with a KDSS vehicle - Passenger side - slightly loosen the bolt holding what I think is the KDSS gear on the front passenger side. This makes it easier to get the Roadsafe wired nut into the chassis. Remember to do this KDSS bolt up again once you get the point on.

Then - AGAINST - mrrandoms advice I undid BOTH of the smaller bolts at the rear and took out the TJM nut backing plate completely that was inside the chassis. I thought I would use the 12.5 bolt in the recovery point AND on the chassis that misses the furthermost rear hole of the recovery point.

This is where it took me ages, trying to get that Roadsafe bolt to screw into the wired nut as you are trying to manouvre it within the chassis is a right PITA. I did this twice - with one bolt and nut through the recovery point and then again (sucker for punishment) for the larger Roadsafe bolt and nut that doesn't bolt through the recovery point. I would love to have a chat with someone on here whom has an engineering background as to why:

a. The bolts aren't all the same size in that part of the bar that meets the chassis and
b. Is what I have done by replacing the smaller bolt with the larger Roadsafe bolt that is not on the recovery point ok and not against some engineering law?
I'm assuming bigger and stronger is better in this case but seek the advice of those that may know better.

Now the driver side -

Only two bolts - and one is the easy one! AND there is no KDSS gear in the way of the chassis internal access hole where you put the backing nut so that made the job a lot easier.

There has been mention of the windscreen fluid bottle plastic cover getting in the way but I used it to help me. I loosened the top bolt that holds this to the car and then once the front (Easy) of the recovery point was on, I lined the rear hole of the point up with the chassis hole which requires some coercion of that bottle of washer fluid out of the way. Once the point was lined up I did up that loosened washer fluid bottle bolt nice and snug to "help" hold the point in place and then with more stuffing around with nuts on wires inside chassis' (sorry for any grammar errors here) the bolt took and away we went.

It was a relief to get off that cold garage floor having done it myself and learning more about this mostly terrific piece of engineering we call our Prado's.
Sorry for the mega long post but it was such a mission and achievement I needed to share it with a group of like minded folk who would appreciate it.

Apologies also for no pics but I was on a mission. Next time the bottom plates are off I'll update this but there are many pics here with TJM13 bars and mine is the same - just with that larger Roadsafe bolt on the passenger side not going through the recovery point but through the TJM bar into the chassis.

[Black 150]

Have you tried coaxing them out with a strong magnet? It worked for someone else I suggested it to.

It did enter my mind, might try it one day. I actually got hold of one of them but for some reason could only get it half way out, I cant get the nut plate past something inside the chassis so I just bent the rod around so it doesnt slip back in.

[fido666]

I fitted mine today. I couldn't get the ARB bar screws out of the chasis though, hope they dont rattle too much.

Have you tried coaxing them out with a strong magnet? It worked for someone else I suggested it to.

[Black 150]

I will be ordering a set of Road Safe points shortly, these posts will make fitting them up much easier.
I have the facelift 150, with ARB bar and ARB underbody protection, so these will fit no issues.

Thanks PP team.. Love your work.

They fit with the ARB bar but I had to trim a little bit off each wing thing to get them back on, i just used tin snips and it was pretty easy

[MDSimpson]

I will be ordering a set of Road Safe points shortly, these posts will make fitting them up much easier.
I have the facelift 150, with ARB bar and ARB underbody protection, so these will fit no issues.

Thanks PP team.. Love your work.

[Black 150]

I fitted mine today. I couldn't get the ARB bar screws out of the chasis though, hope they dont rattle too much.

[AussieAndy]

Can I just ask, using the roadsafe wire-nuts, as I'm useless (but trying to become less useless), if I were feeding the wire nuts through the chassis, do I want to put the flat/plate side against the inside of the chassis, or the nut side against the inside of the chassis for the bolt to thread through? My logic would say the flat side but the wires are all bent so that the nut side is the first side that the bolt touches... The other night I was following the bend and trying to put the nut side but couldn't get the threads to connect (after reading this thread, I have a few ideas on how to fix that though ).

Unfortunately searching for wire-nut in google brings up a completely different piece of hardware to what I'm looking for :-/

I apologise in advance - I'm a domesticated male, we're becoming more frequent in these parts, you can view our species among the concrete jungle, but, I am trying to build up my tool kit and become more man-ly-like... 10yrs ago I was pulling apart a small block engine, now I don't even know how to bolt up a recovery point

I put mine in flat plate side to the chassis as I figured this spreads the load over a greater area of chassis, but I don't think either way is wrong.

PM sent Thank You

PM replied to.

[a1mbm]

The ones I have can fit with just the bumper bar.

PM sent Thank You

[Nik83]

Can I just ask, using the roadsafe wire-nuts, as I'm useless (but trying to become less useless), if I were feeding the wire nuts through the chassis, do I want to put the flat/plate side against the inside of the chassis, or the nut side against the inside of the chassis for the bolt to thread through? My logic would say the flat side but the wires are all bent so that the nut side is the first side that the bolt touches... The other night I was following the bend and trying to put the nut side but couldn't get the threads to connect (after reading this thread, I have a few ideas on how to fix that though ).

Unfortunately searching for wire-nut in google brings up a completely different piece of hardware to what I'm looking for :-/

I apologise in advance - I'm a domesticated male, we're becoming more frequent in these parts, you can view our species among the concrete jungle, but, I am trying to build up my tool kit and become more man-ly-like... 10yrs ago I was pulling apart a small block engine, now I don't even know how to bolt up a recovery point

Has anyone fitted front recovery points to a 150 with just the standard Bumper bar ?and if so have any photos?,early,not face lifted model .

The ones I have can fit with just the bumper bar.