Break pads replacement cost $1200

[lalsyd Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lalsyd]

Yes he's a decent bloke and very fair. Been the family mechanic for a long time.

Lalsyd, I'm to pass his details on in PM if you're interested, although we are a fair drive from Blacktown! Probably better to find someone a bit closer to home.....

Thanks spike69. Please PM his details (phone no & address).
If I couldn't find anyone in blacktown I may contact him.

[ravenhard Member Find all posts View Profile Close ravenhard]

I go to a guy for some things called Blacktown high tech brake and clutch. Good guy and good prices. Never done brakes thru him but other things.

If you still want dealer service I reckon Castle Hill Toyota are pretty good

[nanbar Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close nanbar]

Disgraceful..... You can buy Genuine Toyota replacement pads for about $250 for front and rear.....

They should be nailed for extortion on quotes like this....

Agree. As soon as the warranty period is over on mine, ta ta Toyota Dealers. Utterly useless IMO, in fact I am always worried that they don't actually do what they are supposed to do in the capped service.

[snapper49 Member Find all posts View Profile Close snapper49]

Just had a 130 thou service at toyoto dealer was told all tyres wearing and needed a wheel alignment I couldn't see any wear on tyres and even put a depth mic on tread All prett well even Took it to bridgestone tyre dealer also couldn't pick any wear and then put on their wheel aligner All within spec Lost a customer

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

I was quoted $800 a while back by my local Toyota dealer, just to replace the pads all round. I got it done by ############# for less than $500 including all disks machined.

[Walky88 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Walky88]

I'm a mechanic by trade and at work we charge (retail) the following:

Brake Pads - $130ish (Bendix 4wd only)
Machining - $55 (Pair)
Labour $105 (1 hour)

Normally depends on price of pads as some are cheaper than others but pads incl machining is around $300. Honestly with air tools and hoists takes about 10 mins per axel to change.

For future reference we normally get bendix 4wd pads for around $60 set.

[spike69 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close spike69]

I'm a mechanic by trade and at work we charge (retail) the following:

Brake Pads - $130ish (Bendix 4wd only)
Machining - $55 (Pair)
Labour $105 (1 hour)

Normally depends on price of pads as some are cheaper than others but pads incl machining is around $300. Honestly with air tools and hoists takes about 10 mins per axel to change.

For future reference we normally get bendix 4wd pads for around $60 set.

Would you say Bendix 4WD pads are the best for the Prado Walky?

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

I'm a mechanic by trade and at work we charge (retail) the following:

Brake Pads - $130ish (Bendix 4wd only)
Machining - $55 (Pair)
Labour $105 (1 hour)

Normally depends on price of pads as some are cheaper than others but pads incl machining is around $300. Honestly with air tools and hoists takes about 10 mins per axel to change.

For future reference we normally get bendix 4wd pads for around $60 set.

I'd change the brake fluid and flush the system while I was at it if it was mine, so you could add the cost of say two bottles of brake fluid and a bit of extra labour for that as well...
I used Bendix 4wd pads and they were fine.

[Graydog Find all posts View Profile Close Graydog]

Local mechanic just replaced all 4 pads with Bendix and Toyota fluid replacement and cleaned the "desert" out of rear handbrake drums for a total all up cost of $506. Good deal, easier than doing it myself. I bought the car at 100,000km and this was at 170,000km. From what I can see it is the first change of pads since new. All long country kms and a rough lap around the country.

[JustinS Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close JustinS]

So do you need to:
1. replace the pads and machine the rotors (or replace them), or
2. just replace the pads?

Do you need to do the anti-squeal shims too when doing the pads (part 04945-60090)?

What does machining the rotors actually do?

I supposedly have 25% on the front brakes (3 months ago) and 50%++ on the rear (i assume the ++ on the rears means loads more and are fine for now), so am looking at doing the front at a mechanic.

[Guest Close Guest]

If your rotors aren't warped, just replaced the pads.
If your rotors are warped, it is usually better to replace them and replace the pads at the same time. Some places charge ridiculous amounts for machining which could go towards a rotor upgrade (i.e. slotted)

Machining the rotors makes the rotor surface flat and parallel again.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Repco sale on Bendix 4WD $99.

[LargeInAPrado Member Find all posts View Profile Close LargeInAPrado]

Rotor machining. If you've seen a set of rotors after a set of pads and measured them I think you will understand why they require machining and if they are not (post machining) within their thickness limit, new rotors.

Pads rarely if ever wear uniformly. There will be grooves and variations in thickness from the inside to the outside of the rotor sometimes up to 2mm's they can wear in a concave shape often seen of European vehicles running 'abrasive friction' pads. But never after a set of pads will rotors be flat. Cohesive friction pads wear less but still will never be uniform across the face of a rotor

I ask now what shape are your new pads? Don't worry ill answer they are 'machined' flat.

Machining's purpose is to bring the rotors back to a uniform thickness make them flat and to give the pads a decent surface to bed into. By doing this your pads will bed in much quicker as they don't have to wear into the shape your rotor is already rather both surfaces are flat. Due to bedding in properly you will also have a massively reduced chance of noise and proper bedding in will only ever contribute to improved brake performance.

Very few if any manufacturer including Bendix will warrant their pads for noise unless the rotors have been machined or replaced.

Forget Bendix's titanium stripe for 'bedding in', its gone like a flash and is more marketing than anything else. The biggest pad manufacturers in the world do not use it because there is no benefit.

As for replacement lets for this exercise say the new thickness of your rotors is 26mm and scrap thickness (the working thickness the rotor needs to be to perform sufficiently*) is 24mm typical. Cohesive friction pads (most common in Aus on local and Asian cars) and most of bendixs lower performance pads ie GCT's and Bendix 4wd's will wear the rotor say .3 to .5 mm in their lifetime. machining with a knowledgeable and experienced machinist will normally vary between .3 and .5 of a mm, all depending on how your rotors have worn previously so after one set of local cohesive pads and machining your say at 25mm well within specs. If they measure within say .3 of minimum post machining, they should be IMHO thrown away because whilst ok now, there is no guarantee during the life of the pads they will still be above minimum thickness and that minimum is there for heat dissipation and performance factors. Its a consumable item just like fuel, by driving your using them both up and should be factored into standard maintenance and considering what they do for you and the vehicle should never be skimped on.

I hope that clarifies your question JustinS



* and be roadworthy

So do you need to:
1. replace the pads and machine the rotors (or replace them), or
2. just replace the pads?

Do you need to do the anti-squeal shims too when doing the pads (part 04945-60090)?

What does machining the rotors actually do?

I supposedly have 25% on the front brakes (3 months ago) and 50%++ on the rear (i assume the ++ on the rears means loads more and are fine for now), so am looking at doing the front at a mechanic.

[JustinS Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close JustinS]

I hope that clarifies your question JustinS

Wow, thanks for the detailed information!

[JustinS Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close JustinS]

go towards a rotor upgrade (i.e. slotted)

Thanks amts.

What is a slotted rotor compared to a normal one and why would I get one?

Is it the same thing as a vented rotor?