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  • #16
    After doing much reading I am going to take a fluid flush on myself.
    From my research this is the method I'm going to employ. I will be doing this after the car has been sitting for overnight so the fluid is at ambient temperature.
    +++ This is my theory method for feedback only just in case you're reading this looking for ideas +++++
    1: Ensure that fill plug can be opened then open drain plug and drain fluid.
    2: Accurately measure how much removed.
    3: Refill transmission with EXACT same amount of fluid removed. Also note how much fluid removed from pan drain.
    4: Remove return line after trans cooler
    5: Start car and cycle through gears until the same amount (or slightly less) flows into the pre-placed measuring bucket on return line
    6: Refill transmission through fill plug with EXACTLY the same amount of fluid removed.
    7: Repeat process until fluid that comes out of hose is clean.
    8: Refill transmission with EXACT same amount removed +100mL
    9: Reconnect cooler lines
    10: Start engine and run through gears until Ultragauge trans temp shows 45 degrees. (I know it is mostly accurate as the trans temp shown on the ultragauge and ambient temp shown on the car are within 1 degree in the morning on cold starts)
    11: Stop engine and open overflow hole until only drips come out.
    12: Job done

    Any feedback on whether it will work or any tips?

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    • #17
      Good stuff Jimmy, are you going with the Penrite equivalent? Not the stupid expensive WS (which Peter Kittles say they don't stock and use Valvoline products in the workshop anyway!)

      Also do you need a hand with the flush? I'm keen to learn the process and do my car shortly too. Happy to help you with yours.. if you haven't already done it today!
      2013 (MY14 Facelift) GX - KDJ150R
      -ARB Alloy Roof Rack -SMART Bar -LED rear work light
      -Dual batt. (Red arc sBi) -Secondary fuel filter
      -9" Supacentre LED spotlights -Bushskinz bash plates
      -Safari snorkel

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      • #18
        Originally posted by JimmyC View Post
        Any feedback on whether it will work or any tips?
        Don't waste your time constantly measuring how much goes in.

        Drop the fluid from the sump via the plug. Remove sump and replace filter. Replace sump. Fill until fluid starts to drip out. Remove front fluid line at radiator and stick the end into a container. I used a 2 litre milk bottle. Run engine until the fluid fills the bottle. Stop engine. Empty and replace bottle. Refill sump. Continue this until you get the fresh colour. You can cycle through P - N - D whilst the motor is running. A few seconds in each position. Once you are happy with the colour. Remove the dump bottle and reconnect the line. Fill the sump. Run engine until desired temp is reached. Cycle the shifter and check sump level whilst it is running.
        Dave
        Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
        Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Ghandi View Post
          Good stuff Jimmy, are you going with the Penrite equivalent? Not the stupid expensive WS (which Peter Kittles say they don't stock and use Valvoline products in the workshop anyway!)

          Also do you need a hand with the flush? I'm keen to learn the process and do my car shortly too. Happy to help you with yours.. if you haven't already done it today!
          Hey mate, cheers for the offer but I'm in Darwin for the next few weeks so I'll be doing it here at a mates. If it goes well I'm more than happy to give you a hand to do it!
          Yeah I'm using the penrite equivalent, got it today on the 20% off sale, as well as a 500ml giant syringe thing which i'll use to get the fluid up into the tranny.
          I like your thoughts Bushbasher, I think measuring the exact amount appeals to my OCD side but I understand how it is not entirely necessary.

          Just double checking the drain plug and overflow plug are both on the base of the sump? The overflow is marked 'check'?

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          • #20
            Just a comment regarding measuring exactly how much transmission fluid comes out of the auto transmission to work out how much goes back in....you are assuming that the correct amount of auto transmission fluid is in transmission in the first place. I know that sounds obvious, but I do know that there had been some folk who had issues with their auto transmission due to incorrect fluid volume in it from the factory. Unfortunately we don't have an auto transmission dip stick, (and some folk then incorrectly assumed that the transmission was sealed for life), but there is a correct refilling procedure outlined in the service manual (I did have an electronic version of the service and repair manual for my previous 2010 D4D Prado at one stage but the file became corrupted and I cant use it anymore), but the correct procedure, from memory, is to refill (on level ground) until fluid just starts to drip from the fill plug....hopefully someone else can quote exactly what the toyota manual actually says. Its fine to be OCD but in measuring the volume that comes out of the transmission you may in fact not get the correct volume to go back in....surely its got to be close you would think, but just a comment that's all.
            SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

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            • #21
              Hey all,

              Its good to replace the same volume you pump out, but ultimately it doesn't matter, as the top-up procedure you follow at the end will dictate how much you need to add to have the correct level.

              Once you've flushed and have clean looking oil, the top-up procedure is to fill through the filler plug (near the top of the box, on adaptor in between box and transfer, big 10mm hole), and crack open the overflow drain on the front of the sump, which will have a steady flow of fluid out after you've topped up enough. All this occurs at 46C on the atf sensor. Once the flow through the overflow drain slows to a trickle, seal it up, seal up the filler plug and you're done.

              I've been involved in a fair few of these, and you can top up anywhere between 200ml and 1litre, depending on the size of any after market cooler you might add.

              Best

              Mark
              2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

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              • #22
                So i did the flush yesterday and it seemed to go well. This is the procedure I followed.
                1. I undid the filler plug to make sure that it could be undone to avoid an issue if it couldn't be done.
                2. Opened the 'check' plug (more so out of interest) and got maybe 200mL out of it. The car had been sitting for a few hrs and the trans was at about 35 degrees.
                3. Opened drain plug. Got about 2.9L out.
                4. Refilled 2.9L into filler hole.
                5. Took return line off cooler. I have an aux cooler so just used the hose off that and it made it super easy.
                6. Started car and ran through R N D until approx 3L had come out into a bottle (had a mate help)
                7. Refilled 3L into filler hole
                8. Repeated steps 6 and 7 three more times. The last 10mL or so of the 3rd time began to come out red.
                9. Refilled 3.2L into filler hole.
                10. Closed up all the plugs and reconnected cooler.
                11. Started car and ran through gears until ultragauge showed trans temp of 45 degrees.
                12. Opened 'check' plug. Approx 100mL flowed out before it slowed to a dribble.
                13. Tightened everything back up and checked it all over.

                Here is a photo of the before and after of the trans fluid.
                https://s28.postimg.org/ri8wbhffh/16...43737119_o.jpg

                Only changes I would do is to do 1 more round of filling. I bought 12L of fluid and used about 11.8 of it meaning there is a little of the old stuff still kicking around in the transmission. Also I wouldn't do it hungover again. The repetitive getting under the car is not good for the sore head!

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                • #23
                  Would you think this is a DIY, mechanic, or specialist job to do a flush? I am looking to get one done but live in a rural area and considering getting my local mechanic to do it, or make the long drive to the city to get a trans specialist to do it.

                  Thanks

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                  • #24
                    Easy diy job.
                    1997 petrol auto, 430 000km. Still going strong.
                    2004 petrol auto, 233 000km. Cracked dash and no help from Toyota!

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                    • #25
                      Agree, easy DIY. If fluid out=fluid in then you'll be right.

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                      • #26
                        I am about to try this in the next few weeks (in darwin if anyone is keen to come and watch the mistakes). Earlier in the thread someone mentions that there is no filter, but ryco list a filter for this rtk138. Can anyone comment?

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                        • #27
                          There's a filter in the pan however I wouldn't bother replacing it. I replaced the filter in my 120 at 240000km and it was clean. The filter is just a fine gauze mesh to stop big chunks.
                          2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Wil View Post
                            I am about to try this in the next few weeks (in darwin if anyone is keen to come and watch the mistakes). Earlier in the thread someone mentions that there is no filter, but ryco list a filter for this rtk138. Can anyone comment?
                            There is a filter in the A750F transmission, I replaced mine with a Ryco one

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