Hi, I have a 2015 Prado, which started to have a clicking feeling in the clutch pedal when depressed, I have had lots of experts opinions that include everything from thrust bearings, to finger on the clutch plate worn, to clutch worn. Turns out the culprit is a broken nylon bush in the clutch pedal assembly, there are two that I can see, it is the top one, has anyone else had this problem? If so, was it an easy fix? Attached is an image of the culprit. The vehicle has done 58,000km, any information is greatly appreciated.
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Broken Nylon Clutch Pedal Bush 2015 Prado
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It's a bit hard to see from the photo. I have changed mine in my 120. Not too difficult, if the pedal mechanism is the same as the 120.
http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/gr/...-hose/1#31301CSilver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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I had a slightly creaky pedal at around 200k km, it refused to quieten with spray lube so I removed the pedal assembly and replaced the bushes, steel sleeve and nylon pivot for the spring.
When you take it out, make sure you mark the position of the two brackets held together with the pivot bolt, they will pivot around each other when that bolt is loosened and you won't know the right position when you reassemble it. Take photos of how the spring goes too.. ;-)1 PhotoSilver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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Originally posted by armageddon View PostMine has just started doing the same at 250K. How hard was it to get to the bush to change it? The schematic doesn't mean too much to me and I haven't really tinkered with a clutch pedal before.
When you reassemble it make sure you have free play on the pedal to the master cylinder of about 5mm pedal movement
Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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Originally posted by adrian5800 View Post
Remove the nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder on and above the pedal is a bolt that holds the top of the pedal bracket in the dash. From memory it's easier to remove the speedo cluster to access to remove it.
When you reassemble it make sure you have free play on the pedal to the master cylinder of about 5mm pedal movement
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Originally posted by adrian5800 View Post
Remove the nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder on and above the pedal is a bolt that holds the top of the pedal bracket in the dash. From memory it's easier to remove the speedo cluster to access to remove it.
When you reassemble it make sure you have free play on the pedal to the master cylinder of about 5mm pedal movement
I changed my clutch bushes yesterday. Your info and diagram made it much easier! Cheers,
Guy.
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Just reading through this thread and I'm wondering if anyone has done a step by step on this job or know of a video or something. I've had a look at the job and it looks complicated. Getting that top bolt out seems like a mission??? i pulled the speedo cluster out and I can't see how that makes the job easier.
I'm also wondering if you just disconnected the master and left it sitting in the engine bay without disconnecting the lines.
I bought the bushes for the main bolt 31301c but I'm wondering if there is anything else I should replace.
Thanks in advance much appreciated.
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Hey guys I just thought that I would update this hoping it might help some people... Mine is a 2010 Prado GX. Thanks to all the previous posters... I bought the 4 nylon bushes part numbers 2x31301c, 31353 and 31301p for around 20 bucks. I probably only needed to replace 31301p but while you are there its worth doing them all. I started by disconnecting the battery. I removed the steering wheel (you probably don't need to do this but its an easy job and it gives you heaps more access.) I then removed all of the lower plastic panelling including the airbag that is down there. YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE THE SPEEDO CLUSTER. I did this and it wasn't necessary. Then remove the 2 nuts under the bonnet holding the clutch master, then back under the dash the 2 electrical clips, the pin connecting the master to the pedal and then undo about half way the lower bolt in the attached picture. I removed the top one with great difficulty and it was a waste of time. The pedal will slide from under that lower bolt. Then pull the pedal out, mark the pieces with a sharpie especially the bits that are being held together by the bolt (fortunately mine had a factory paint mark.) I think that's the bit where the guys say make sure there is 5mm play when reassembling. Grease up your nylon bushes and then put it all back together. I noticed that my metal on my pedal was starting to get chewed out so that will mean that 31301p will probably prematurely fail next time. I wonder how much a pedal costs??? Ah well now I know what to do it's all good. Hope that this helps someone...1 Photo
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Hi Guys, First time poster. I replaced my 31301p bush by using a cable tie around the two arms of the spring, pull it tight, then get a helper to push in the clutch pedal. The spring remains compressed and allows the spring to pop out of the metal slot. Pop in the new bush, reseat the spring arm and let out the clutch. Cut the cable tie and job done. I removed the lower plastic shroud (one screw) to allow access. I hope that helps.Last edited by gemmebr; 23-05-2022, 04:25 PM.
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Gee I love forums and all the help you get! Gemmebr, agree you don't need to remove the cluster etc - your cable tie trick made it easy..
I've just done my clutch bush, so thought I would post some detail/photos to help the next person (even though manual Prados are becoming a rare beast). Mine is a 2016 150 2.8D, 120,000 km. Looks like it has been the same for a lot of models. Took around 15 minutes including working out how to do it.
So here's my how-to:- Purchase the bush. Ordered mine in at the local Toyota deal for $5.12 each (just quoted part number 31301P). I got 2 in case I stuffed one up or as a future spare in case I need it in another 100,000km if I can find it
- Remove the panel below the panelling around the steering wheel that goes back up under the footwell. There is one screw in the centre, then 3 clips that just pop out with a little downwards force. See pic of removed panel below
- Get a light to shine up into the clutch pedal mounting/pivot area
- I found by looking through the gap at the bottom of the steering column I could see all I needed to see - much easier than laying on your back looking up
- Get a ~200mm cable tie and put the end through but not tightened
- Look at the spring though the gap, and depress the clutch with your left hand (it's not that hard) and note how the spring moves/is located etc. The dodgy bush is the end closest to the engine
- Slip the cable tie over it then tighten as much as you can
- Depress the clutch pedal with you left hand and pull up the cable tie tighter with you right
- Spring should be able to be dropped out at this point easily (see photo of spring with cable tie on it)
- Remove the dodgy bush, replace with the new one. It just sits in a C-shaped cutout so just slots straight in. It is held in place by the spring whne operating. Photo of my old bush below
- Re-install the spring, cut the cable tie.
- Test your squeak removed clutch
- Replace kick panel
- Contemplate what to do with the $250 you just saved
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