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The 150 series Dual Battery Guide
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Originally posted by AJ120 View PostHow do you use a hydrometer on a sealed battery?
Cheers Andrew
Still, until it's loaded no way to check if it hold current.[CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
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Craig you could probably get it load tested where you bought it?My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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Originally posted by craigm View PostVoltage 1hr after disconnecting Batt charger - 12.89V -
Voltage 9hr after disconnecting Batt Charger - 12.79V
(Battery not in car so 0 load on battery)
While you have given the Optima a good charge, at 12.79v, being an Optima Yellowtop, the fully charged OPEN CIRCUIT voltage is 13.1v.
Still sounds like the battery is good, just give it a bit longer on the charger, and see what you get.
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ok, two quick questions:
due to the lack of space for 2x N70 sized batteries under the bonnet, would a Optima yellow top (as starter) and Century Marine Pro 730 (as secondary for fridge) need a DCDC charger such as the Redarc BCDC 1225 OR just use the diode trick and a basic sbi isolator?
Second question:
what type of batterys are the following (ie, wet cell/calcium etc)
Marine pro 730
'normal' century 4wd starter motor
optima yellow top
Thank you, sorry for ignorance
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All batteries these days are calcium hybrids, generally calcium these days refers
to a full calcium battery.
Marine Pro is a wet cell but use AGM mode on a charger.
Century 4WD again wet cell but use AGM
Optima AGM, could use wet cell mode on a charger as these have a higher terminal voltage but I would use AGM
Most modern batteries charge at lower voltages and don't like the wet cell setting on chargers.HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others
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Originally posted by Isiman View Postok, two quick questions:
due to the lack of space for 2x N70 sized batteries under the bonnet, would a Optima yellow top (as starter) and Century Marine Pro 730 (as secondary for fridge) need a DCDC charger such as the Redarc BCDC 1225 OR just use the diode trick and a basic sbi isolator?
Second question:
what type of batterys are the following (ie, wet cell/calcium etc)
Marine pro 730
'normal' century 4wd starter motor
optima yellow top
Thank you, sorry for ignorance
Before i do can you also list the actual century battery model?
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It's a N70ZZL4WD.
I will take a picture of my charger as it has 3x different battery types, and 3x different voltage settings on it - actually, no I wont as pictures on this forum seem to be really sucky (ie, they only display a link to the image). I will do it the old fashion way and type out what I see!
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Hi Isiman and first off, why not just fit two Optima Yellowtop batteries.
This would give you two high current ( fast ) charging batteries, and you most certainly wouldn’t need a DC/DC charger.
Next, no need for pictures of your charge, just post up the make and model of your battery charger and we can Google for the manual for your specific charger.
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I already have a marine pro as well as the other n70 (which is unfortunately useless in the prado - not having enough space for 2x n70s) taken out of my Patrol before it left my hands - took all the good bits out before it 'went'. If I don't need to buy two new batteries then that is a good thing however when the Marine Pro does die, then I might consider getting a second yellow top.
I would be looking at using the yellow top as the starter and running accessories of the marine.
The marine pro is only about 4 months old.
I'll have a look at lunch time for the model of the charger.
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