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  • #1

    Redarc SBI12 "Override" feature

    I finally got around to completing my dual battery install and in the process of stuffing around moving the car in and out of the garage a couple of times through the day and leaving it overnight (must have left the lights on or something), I managed to flatten the starting battery and it wouldn't start the following day. Not a problem I thought, I have an SBI12 with an overide feature....

    So after knocking up a quick jumper to connect the override cable to the Aux battery connection on the isolator, I hit the start button and the car kicked over for about long enough to pump a few hundred amps through the 100 amp fuse on the second battery and pop the fuse without the car starting. Obviously the starter drew too much current from the second battery (because, err the main one was flat...) and this was why the fuse blew.

    My question is, has anyone successfully used the override feature with a flat main battery, when the SBI12 is installed as per Redarcs instructions with a 100amp fuse and 3B&S between each battery and the isolator? I am trying to decide if it's worth bothering with a switch for the override, if it's just going to pop a fuse each time I use it there is no point.

    All I can say is I am glad it happened at home in close proximity to a battery charger and not out in the middle of nowhere...
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  • #2
    My overide works perfectly.

    Saved me a few times when I have flattened the starter.

    mlc
    [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
    [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

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    • #3
      Where is the fuse you talk of? I dont (and some might disagree here) run a fuse on the positive feed between the primary and secondary battery. Provided you double insulate it, and are careful in where you put it, you should be OK without a fuse. Otherwise look at a much higher rated Breaker as opposed to a fuse.
      My Rig: 150 GXL D4D, Tough Dog adjustable suspension with 60mm lift, Polyair bags, ARB Winch Bar, Warn Winch with Dynamica Rope, Outback Ideas recovery points, GME UHF, HID Low/High Beam, Lightforce Genesis HID Spots, Dual Battery Setup with rear power outlets, ARB air compressor in engine bay, ~30L Watertank mounted behind fueltank.

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      • #4
        My over-ride is an absolute god-send, works perfectly.....
        Graphite 150 series [B]"Altitude"[/B] - MT ATZ 4-rib ATZ, ARB Delux winch bar, Magnum 9000lb winch, ARB CKMA12 air compressor(with tray) dual battery, LF 240 HID, Waeco 80L fridge, OL 45 lt fridge, ARB Roof Rack and space case, GME 3450 UHF, OME Shocks and Springs, ARB awning, BRC quad diff breather, TG150 gaurd, AMTS bash plates and a wishlist!!

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        • #5
          There seems to be two conversations going on here. If you have wired the overide switch as per the instructions, then I don't know why you would be " knocking up a quick jumper" ?

          I assume the others above are refering to succes with the override switch wired as per the instructions?

          Or am I missing something?

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          • #6
            rwo,

            The 120 Prado Diesel draws about 270 amps and it wouldn't be that different to the 150. Your 100 amp fuse is inadequate.

            Hazza
            Silver 120 Series Diesel GXL 2009 with Option Pack 2, king Springs 2" Lift with 'H' front spring, MT ATZ 4-RIB, Dual Battery, Deluxe ARB Bull-bar, Winch, Towbar, Anderson 50 amp plug at the rear, Weather Shields, Bonnet and Head Light Protectors, Rubber Mats inc Cargo mat, UHF Ariel, Portable Uniden UHF plugs into areal, On-board ARB Compressor, Brains Black Box TG150 Protector, Rear Black Duck Seat Covers.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Heath74 View Post
              There seems to be two conversations going on here. If you have wired the overide switch as per the instructions, then I don't know why you would be " knocking up a quick jumper" ?

              I assume the others above are refering to succes with the override switch wired as per the instructions?

              Or am I missing something?
              When i say "knocking up a jumper" i was refering to a piece of electrical cable with one plug that connected to the overide wire and the other to the aux bat terminal, this is all your hardwired switch does, just without the switch.

              While my cable is double insulated and run securely, I sit on the cautious side of the fench and fuse all battery connections anyway.

              If the overide doesnt work with a 100amp fuse, i will "overide" it with half a jumper lead should the need arise, I was just curious if others have had success.

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              • #8
                Mate take out the fuse. if you have run the battery cables propperly ull never need the fuses in there. I have fitted many of these systems with no dramas.
                2010 Kakadu T/D, Auto, Sahara bar, HID IPF 900s, Beaudesert Exhaust. 2' Bilstein lift, Steinbauer chip, rally X mudflaps, kaymar rear door getup, Cooper AT3 275 65 18 on KMC wheels and bfg km2 285 70 17 on dick cepek torque, safari snorkel, ARB roof rack, dual batts, uhf and brake controller and a bit of other crap.

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                • #9
                  What is the continuous rating of these Redarc SBI12? If they can't handle the current draw of starting the car, then it won't take long b4 the contacts start pitting and stop working all together
                  [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
                  [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
                  [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
                  [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
                  [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

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                  • #10
                    100A continous. I've read 400A short term somewhere before.
                    2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by stewydz View Post
                      Mate take out the fuse. if you have run the battery cables propperly ull never need the fuses in there. I have fitted many of these systems with no dramas.
                      Yep agree.

                      Double insulate the cable and you'll be fine. You will always pop the fuse the way you have set it up. Too much current for starting.

                      Chriso
                      [COLOR=blue]Current rig - 150 GXL D4D Auto TJM bullbar. Airtec Snorkel. ARB Underbonnet Comp.
                      Previous rig - 02 TD GXL.[/COLOR]

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