Engine rattle

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

My dealer told me to avoid using diesel from the cheapies (I put united in this category). Use BP and keep you receipts (in case a warranty claim is required.....hopefully not).

I am very particular where I go, in fact I use only one BP service station (Pennant Hills Rd Thornleigh) as they have high flow diesel pumps which means trucks fill up there which in turn means high turn over and hopefully fresher diesel.

I use BP diesel, but there is no way that Toyota can tie your warranty to only using one brand of diesel. While up north recently I had no choice but to use other brands, happy for Toyota to ship in some BP diesel for me

[wooley Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close wooley]

I use BP diesel, but there is no way that Toyota can tie your warranty to only using one brand of diesel. While up north recently I had no choice but to use other brands, happy for Toyota to ship in some BP diesel for me

They can't tie you to a single brand of diesel, but they can tell you what the specification of that diesel must be.

I think you'll find BP is the only company which guarantees their diesel specs (which are correct for d4d), maybe caltex vortex meets spec too?

I think as standard cetane is 46 and Toyota say should use 50? Maybe someone can correct me on all of this.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

They can't tie you to a single brand of diesel, but they can tell you what the specification of that diesel must be.

I think you'll find BP is the only company which guarantees their diesel specs (which are correct for d4d), maybe caltex vortex meets spec too?

I think as standard cetane is 46 and Toyota say should use 50? Maybe someone can correct me on all of this.

So what to do if you are driving where there is no BP or Caltex such as some parts of the bush? The Toyota ads emphasize that Toyota's are built for the outback, I think they'd be hard pushed to make a case. Any lawyers lurking?

[Riv39 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Riv39]

krypto, did you notice that 'additional' leaflet in with the owner’s manual etc? It was separate to the actual owner’s manual and clearly added in addition to the other documentation. It had a clear warning that the D4D required good quality fuel purchased from (I think it said) a reputable supplier (or something to that effect). It also had something about ensuring you use genuine filters. I'll have to recheck the wording. Not sure whether this was added locally (Toyota Aus) but I suspect so. Now if you’re a conspiracy theorist you would probably believe that they don't trust some of the fuel available here in Aus...who knows. But I certainly will always use BP and keep the receipts, not for the Toyota warranty necessarily (although it may be useful to counter them blaiming an injector problem on fuel) but to use for BP's warranty regarding contaminated fuel.

Wooley, they only state 46 cetane (the Aus standard) in the manual. Others on this forum believe the D4D requires 50+. I've posted elsewhere on this but my research indicates that only BP ultimate diesel is guaranteed to be 50 +. BP did tell me that the vast majority of their diesel exceeds 50 anyway and Ultimate is not available in NSW. Caltex is only 46 (including Vortex) although they claim to mostly exceed it unless the fuel has been imported. Shell is supposed to be 49+.

[Bert Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bert]

i agree with Riv. i have also been using BP since new and kept receipts just in case. recently had mine serviced and had a discussion with the service manager. he tells me that the D4Ds with issues are those with contaminated fuel i.e- mixed with petrol. in particular, there's one with a fuel pump totally destroyed as it blew up when it sucked in petrol. apparently it was the driver who made the mistake.
i've always been careful when at the bowser and have made it a point that i will be the only one to fill it up.
question. why is it that the bowser sizes are similar for both petrol and diesel and "accidents" can happen? wouldn't it be sensible to alter shapes like make the diesel bowser a double barrel with both tubes smaller but still maintain the volumetric flow and for the car inlet a figure 8?
for the rattle issue, i've asked a few owner/drivers and one especially who does lots of start stop driving (van with the D4D) and by stopping, he meant engine shut off. in the 4 years and 95,000 kms he never had a problem. usual service done as required at Toyota. has he been lucky? or rather it was him being careful with the service schedules, etc..

[Riv39 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Riv39]

Bert, if you use a high flow pump there can be no confusion as the bowser size is large along the entire length. I reckon the confusion is from people not being used to a diesel engine and just go straight to the unleaded bowser out of habit. The other giveaway is the oil everywhere....my misses refuses to fill the car up anyway so I'm safe (not to sound sexist).

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

So what to do if you are driving where there is no BP or Caltex such as some parts of the bush? The Toyota ads emphasize that Toyota's are built for the outback, I think they'd be hard pushed to make a case. Any lawyers lurking?

Carry some Wynns Spitfire Diesel Fuel Treatment and add some to the tank if you have to use another supplier other than BP. Wynns Diesel Fuel Treatment boosts the cetane rating of diesel fuel.

Also occasionally use CHEMTECH "Diesel Power" additive, especially when refilling at remote or low volume suppliers, as it not only cleans injectors, but assists with clearing water in the fuel. Its australian made, and I spoke with the actual chemist who makes the products at a 4*4 show recently, and it is definately safe to use with the new Prado 150.

[gxl_d4d Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close gxl_d4d]

Where's a good place other than Toyota to go to have the injector feedback values checked for a reasonable price?

My engine runs fine but is a bit rattely sometimes under light load and occasional cold knock. I've done 95 000km and the rattliness is under light load is more noticable after long road trips (1000+km). The car runs very smoothly after these long trips but the noise is a worry.

I don't have a lot of spare time to go back and forth to the dealer so I'm after an independant test and one trip to the dealer for a replacement if necessary.

Thanks,

[williade Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close williade]

That was an informative read Roo.

Just to clarify, you have found that the injectors aren't overworked when compared to the injectors of other CRD engines, so that means its the quality of the material that's to blame for the premature wear of the injectors?

Also are D4D engines (1KD-FTV and 1VD-FTV if its used) in Europe also experiencing injector failure? Was the issue of material quality addressed by the replacement injectors?

[Riv39 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Riv39]

Interesting read Roo, I had my injectors checked at 20,000km and all ok according to the dealer who showed me the numbers. I am going to have the dealer check them every 10,000km. I'm also going to take out an extended warranty before I hit my last year of factory warranty.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

The issue for me isn't that the early 120s had a problem; and not really even that the last ones have issues but that the problem continues now with the latest iteration of the D4D.

[MalG Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close MalG]

Sorry if this is a dumb question but is the engine rattle the only obvious indication of an injector problem?

Cheers

[Riv39 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Riv39]

Roo, I did ask my dealer about replacement (if required) and they immediately said yes all four need to be done. Good start if I ever need it (hopefully not). I have a pretty good relationship with the service manager (yes I've spent my fair share of time going back with problems like the binding shaft etc) so hopefully things would be ok if the worse were to happen.

[shamozzle Find all posts View Profile Close shamozzle]

Just a quick Q. Do any of the members suffering from the cold engine injector rattle have some sort of aftermarket performance chip fitted. I notice that mine is a bit noisy first thing in the morning but only until the engine begins to warm up. There shouldn't be any cold weather issues up hear in the north west of W.A, however I may try it tomorrow morning by unplugging the chip and seeing how that goes. Otherwise I'll get the dealer to check the specs on the 20000K service.

Cheers,

Chris.

[BNEGXL Member Find all posts View Profile Close BNEGXL]

Chris,

Ours has approximately 35,000k's on it.

I fitted a chip it chip about 1,000k's ago, until then it was pretty quiet, it does get a bit noisy when it's due for a service.

Since I fitted the chip it is noticably noisier at start up, it's not just me either both my wife and son have commented separately.

The rattle stays until the engine is at running temp, ie the temp gauge stabilises, then it settles down to the noise level it was at prior to fitting the chip, maybe a bit louder but not much.

Hope that helps,

Greg