Reasonable life expectancy of D4D diesel engine

[frederick Member Find all posts View Profile Close frederick]

Gidday, sorry to hijack the thread but i have a question for the experts out there like Roo, steve m etc, my questions is on my D4D high ks 170+ how often and i what order do i change my fuel filters that is the two i have under the bonnet (i have an additional cat filter fitted prior to the OEM ) and the OEM fuel filter under the body near the fuel tanks. I was planning on changing the two under bonnet ones every 10,000ks and i was unsure about the one under the body near the fuel tanks. I carry spares for all filters fuel and oil. I will now be changing my oil in between services every 5000ks as recommended by the roo and also using the caltex oil he recommended as well.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Wazza (frederick)

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

"The GTX Diesel is rated at API CH-4 so it is a bit thick, bit like myself sometimes really. The Magnatec Diesel 15W-40 is rated at the API CF rating that you want."

Hey Wazza, if you were referring to the information above posted by the "roo"....I think what the roo was referring to here was "castrol" Magnatec Diesel 15W-40....not "caltex"....but just double check that

[frederick Member Find all posts View Profile Close frederick]

life of D4D

brogers


"The GTX Diesel is rated at API CH-4 so it is a bit thick, bit like myself sometimes really. The Magnatec Diesel 15W-40 is rated at the API CF rating that you want."

Hey Wazza, if you were referring to the information above posted by the "roo"....I think what the roo was referring to here was "castrol" Magnatec Diesel 15W-40....not "caltex"....but just double check that

Hi, just a typO sorry i meant Castrol.

Frederick

[Leethal Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Leethal]

A little intrigued here with the insistance on 5000 km service intervals for diesels.
For an early model diesel (pre common rail or unit injection) sure as the "excess" fueling contaminated the oil relatively quickly however I believe the newer technology injection systems no longer have the same "excess" fuel issues hence the increase by manufacturers to 10,000 km service intervals.
Sure changing your oil every 5000 km might be cheap insurance but I don't believe really necessary with common rail engines.

As to changing coolant every 12 months with 50/50 coolant ... I believe your better off using a "Ready to Use" coolant (premixed) as RTU coolant will have the correct quality of water as opposed to say tap water. If your coolant system needs cleaning every 12 months you have an issue with water quality not coolant quality. A good RTU coolant will go 3 years with out issue between flushes and refill.

For what its worth I work for an engine manufacturer and oil & fuel quality plus coolant/water quality is regularly discussed and checked with regards to warranty claims.

Lee

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

Never had issues with corrosion in any of my vehicles even my old 89 lux, was still clean as a whistle the day I sold it with 300k on it. Always used genuine coolant, was changed every 40 thou and never ever had a cooling problem. Always used distilled water with the geuine pink toyota coolant. My wifes new toyota has a sticker on it, long life coolant due at 160 thou ?? I will be changing it before then done 55k now in exactly 5 years but go by age not klms due to the small amount she does...Probably isnt anything wrong with after market stuff but for the amount of times it needs changing Ill get genuine thanks and always will. I work along the lines of genuine products, things like mitsi auto trans fluid, try running your everyday normal dot4 in it and see what happens, kabang. Im probably a bit anal but to me they make it specifically to suit a certain brand of vehicle so Ill stick with it.Cheers Steve

[gxl_d4d Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close gxl_d4d]

If anyone is after engine oil, I dropped in to SEQ Fuels at Rocklea today to get a 20L drum of Delo 400 which was $83. They also had Delo 400LE for $94.

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

Hi there Roo, off topic I know but I still like the torque response better in the 120 V6 then the 150 in the V6, Im suprised toyota didnt manufacture the engine so as to keep the torque range lower in the rev range like the 120 eg......Power 179kW @ 5200rpm Torque 376Nm @ 2400-3800rpm
150.......Power 202kW @ 5600rpm Torque 381Nm @ 4400rpm I have read here and there on the net people who tow and have owned the 120 V6 prior are not happy with the torque so much higher in the rev range there for using more fuel then they were in the 120 V6. They reckon due to having the variable valves on exhaust now as well.. Must say after having the 95 V6 and 1kz in the 95 as well the 120 V6 is like,, wow when you plant the boot, yes it obviously uses more fuel then the diesel without a doubt but last trip loaded (no off road) I got 11.6L per 100, got to be happy with that. I think the main issue with the V6 on water crossing is if you get hung up some where your probably going to be in trouble with water (if deep enough) starting to get up around electronics. Not as bad these days with coil packs and no distributors and minimal spark plug leads (depending on vehicle) Definately agree with you in regards to oil changes, I was at Toyota the other day (Lander Blacktown) and the bloke bought oil filter and 2 containers of oil for his brand new navara. $203.00 I nearly fell over, the special oil was the killer in price but the bloke at the counter explained to him exactly what you just said...........Cheers Steve

[frederick Member Find all posts View Profile Close frederick]

fuel system

Thanks Roo, what a guy you are and thank-you for taking the time and effort to respond to our questions. Just to clarify you say change both filtesr at 10,000 intervals, thats the under bonnet and the underbody fuel tank filter i assume. I ask this question as i have two filters under my bonnet the cat one and the toyota OEM.

Cheers

Wazza (frederick)

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

The way I read it, yes. due to the cost of injectors and the pump what Roo is saying is cheaper to replace your filters at the 10k intervals and keep everything nice and clean to reduce the risk of any build up or crap coming through the system. Personally myself with the extra filtering you have I would do every 20k but that is me. I dont know what the intervals are for the fuel filters recomended by toyota (40k ??) but I would not let it go this long, again that's me. I know people just follow the service intervals but some times for the extra few $$ for filters is it worth the risk to stretch it out ?? I know the oil these days are better quality then years ago but i noticed now even toyota are doing 15k intervals on the oil changes on the new model camry, alot of dealers I have noticed now are doing this on the petrol models in there range, too long as far as Im concerned. I wouldnt like to extend my 120 petrol from 10k to 15k.Cheers Steve M

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

A lot of the ideas on changing filters and oil are based on urban myths and fiction. If you want to look after your engine here are a few points to consider

1. Oil turning black is not a sign of it loosing its lubricating properties, with modern oils its a sign that the oil is doing its job. There is lot of info available on this the web.
2. Modern oil has exceptional qualities and maintains it lubricating properties far better than oil of decades past where the practice of frequent oil changes developed.
3. The majority of engine wear occurs during cold starts and a large number of these or running overly hot may impact the oils ability to do its job.
4. Particles in oil cause wear and a lot are introduced during oil changes by contamination of the "new" oil and contamination in the oil change equipment. How clean are your oil change pumps, adapters, funnels and hoses? I am often amazed by the poor standard of oil storage practices and the condition of oil change equipment in workshops.
5. Oil storage often introduces both contamination and moisture. This becomes a bigger problem in large containers stored for extended periods.
6. New filters do not filter better than old filters, in fact the opposite is true. Filers become "better"at filtering over time as they start to clog, and the real issue is that they can become too good at filtering as they clog up and eventually reduce and ultimately stop flow. The exception is physical damage to the filter which is quite uncommon.
7. The main source of damage to direct injection systems comes from moisture, which is captured by a trap and not a filter. Contaminants can harm an injection system, but as for oil, a new filter generally won't do a better job of filtering.
8. If filters become clogged, most systems have a bypass that activates, bypassing the filter. Hence filters must be changed, but doing it excessively won't achieve anything.
All of this doesn't take away from the satisfaction that we feel replacing dirty looking oil and filters, but don't confuse emotion with the science of maintaining your engine.

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

""New filters do not filter better than old filters, in fact the opposite is true. Filers become "better"at filtering over time as they start to clog, and the real issue is that they can become too good at filtering as they clog up and eventually reduce and ultimately stop flow. The exception is physical damage to the filter which is quite uncommon."" Not sure I totally agree with you on this. Your saying a filter blocks for example then flow stops ?? If flow stopped wouldnt you have an oil pressure light come on saying "hey Im blocked turn off the engine ?"" Never saw that when I worked for toyota, all I heard was knocking noise under exceleration and we would drop the sumps off to discover the pick up totally blocked due to the oil becoming like thick sludge obviously not been able to lubricate like its meant to. Then customers trying to claim warranty, not likely after doing 30k without oill change. Still have this problem wit my sister, would rather buy a new pair of shoes then change the oil every 10 and wonders whay shes had 3 new motors within 250k. Her theory cheaper then paying for services every 10k, her money not mine............Cheers Steve

[rob_macca67 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close rob_macca67]

With all these comments of what's good and what's not, it would be good if members can share wherethey obtained their information from and if possible... if they have a mechanical back ground (ie Mechanic by Trade).

I find some of the comments made interesting but at the same time I'm not sure I would be following all the info given.....


On a side note.... The comment regarding the Engine Oil Filter clogging.... I would have thought there would be a built-in bypass valve built into the filter that would at least ensure the oil flow would continue (No proof, only guessing/asking the question here)

I think at a minimum, that I would at least be following the Manufacturers guidelines in servicing to cover yourself for any warranty issues..... Mines under lease, so it gets serviced as per manual.... After Lease is up I'll probably look at changing Oil/Filter at around 7500 intervals (driving period dependant).

[frederick Member Find all posts View Profile Close frederick]

Thanks Roo, i now have the recommended filter changes locked in for the two under the bonnet and the one near the tank.

Best regards

Wazza (frederick)

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

With all these comments of what's good and what's not, it would be good if members can share wherethey obtained their information from and if possible... if they have a mechanical back ground (ie Mechanic by Trade).

I find some of the comments made interesting but at the same time I'm not sure I would be following all the info given......

Fair point. I'm a mechanical engineer and spent over 25 years looking after various forms of plant and equipment maintenance.

A lot of my ideas were similar to others around here until I worked with a guy who was a researcher and expert on lubrication.

In answer to the query about filters clogging up, most engines have a filter bypass that begins to activate once the pressure across the filter becomes too high (clogs). When this happens the filter stops working and you start to get contaminants in the engine(sludge).

As to one of the other comments, I would meet advocate changing oil every 30k, that's just asking for trouble.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

Hi Rob, well Im not a mechanic, BUT maybe I should have been as some times after speaking with some staff (mechanics) at toyota dealerships about mechanical issues I have had over the past (warranty) some of them had no idea in regards to what I was refering to, I worked for toyota for 4 years as aircon fitter then predelivery manager but worked in the workshop side of it so was always helping the guys out doing things so learnt a lot from that in regards to toyota. Then i have friends (not my mums neighbours best friends uncle type of friends) but people I have dealt with directly in regards to issues they have had eg injectors,engine mounts on the D4D's and alot of what I have read either magazines,web,etc. Definately not a mechanic by trade but as most of my family say should have been one, always got my head either under the bonnet of a friends car or family doing some thing to it, wether its just changing oil or trying to resolve an issue. Some things I just dont have the tools for like when the head went on my 1KZ and I would never use them again so no point spending a fortune on some thing I dont have time to use anyway.......I'll either ask if I dont know or try and advise if I have some idea but have been know to be wrong on many occasions lol..........just ask the wife..Cheers Steve Thought I might add I have now had over 50 cars in 26 years of driving ranging from bikes,4wd,high performance vehicles of all different manufacturer's. Prados still the best of I had out of the 4wd's including hilux,suzuki vitara's (3 of) wife just rolls her eyes..............