Thats for the DPF. We will see these in most new diesels from 2015-2016 regardless of brand.
08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.
Not really. What VW did was to have two engine maps in the ECU. One for the EPA test, and one for normal driving. The EPA test is run with the car stationary, steering straight and door open - with some of those parameters in place the ECU switches to the EPA map. Pretty tricky, but also pretty fraudulent...
I thought the EGR was part of the pollution control system . Same as DPF, Twin turbo's and Add Blue to name a few. The point of this thread was to disable block or restrict a part of the system either Mechanically, Electrically or by total removal.
At least VW did that, somewhat illegally but at least there motors will probably last longer than the D4D.
My last post was just to point this out.
I did my EGR last weekend - my pics are below.
About 20,000 km ago I had the injectors replaced and while that was done I had the full intake cleaned including removal of the inlet manifold. I then installed a provent catch can. So the pics show 20,000 km worth of build up. And it was definitely dry crud, not like tar at all.
And as was said above, you definitely need a uni-joint and extension bars for your socket wrench to do this job. Not particularly hard if you have the right tools, just time consuming.
2008 Charcoal 120 GXL - D4D Auto with Option Pack
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33254-MYBO-s-Charcoal-120-GXL"]My Build Up Thread[/URL]
So even with a catch can it still gets pretty dirty in there without that many kilometers.
Side note: Those pictures are too small, way too small.
Click on the pictures - they open in a new window much larger.
2008 Charcoal 120 GXL - D4D Auto with Option Pack
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33254-MYBO-s-Charcoal-120-GXL"]My Build Up Thread[/URL]
I thought the EGR was part of the pollution control system . Same as DPF, Twin turbo's and Add Blue to name a few. The point of this thread was to disable block or restrict a part of the system either Mechanically, Electrically or by total removal.
At least VW did that, somewhat illegally but at least there motors will probably last longer than the D4D.
My last post was just to point this out.
That dry stuff really nasty stuff, try the soot reduction plate.
Yeah, I heard that if you were going to do it, then a good time to fit that restrictor plate is when you have the intercooler off and the EGR all dis-assembled. It would make it much easier to wriggle the EGR cooler and pipe free of the head so that the plate can be slipped into place. But I wouldn't do something like that...
2008 Charcoal 120 GXL - D4D Auto with Option Pack
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33254-MYBO-s-Charcoal-120-GXL"]My Build Up Thread[/URL]
Yeah, I heard that if you were going to do it, then a good time to fit that restrictor plate is when you have the intercooler off and the EGR all dis-assembled. It would make it much easier to wriggle the EGR cooler and pipe free of the head so that the plate can be slipped into place. But I wouldn't do something like that...
I thought the EGR was part of the pollution control system . Same as DPF, Twin turbo's and Add Blue to name a few. The point of this thread was to disable block or restrict a part of the system either Mechanically, Electrically or by total removal.
At least VW did that, somewhat illegally but at least there motors will probably last longer than the D4D.
My last post was just to point this out.
Yep.
And my post was to point out we just don't know yet whether Toyota is already on the bandwagon or not. The VW issue is specifically with the ECU.
Thanks ####
Already took your advise and put the blank back in with the 7mm hole as you said better than nothing at this point.
I have found it easier to cut the corners off like some on the market. Remove the two nuts from the head and loosen the bolt under the heat exchanger then price away carefully as you bring the plate up from the bottom left looking at the side of the motor. Easy even with my old arthritic fat fingers.
I have done exactly the same as you Poppy Joe. Not easy to see what you are doing and rely a lot on feel. Camera on the iphone was good to check it was in place correctly before tightening the nuts up. Found it easy also to pull the sensor plug that was in the way of the lower right hand side nut. Remember to re-attach it. In the picture attached can see the plug removed and a tiny bit of the blanking plate where it sits under the nuts.
I have done exactly the same as you Poppy Joe. Not easy to see what you are doing and rely a lot on feel. Camera on the iphone was good to check it was in place correctly before tightening the nuts up. Found it easy also to pull the sensor plug that was in the way of the lower right hand side nut. Remember to re-attach it. In the picture attached can see the plug removed and a tiny bit of the blanking plate where it sits under the nuts.
On new clean cars the plug comes off.
On offroaders & a few years old they are usually very stuck.
Just to let people know its often not easy to remove plug.
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