150,000 km Service

[JimmyC Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close JimmyC]

G'day Guys,
I've spend some time searching but can't find any concrete answers regarding this.
1. I'm planning on doing the service by the book: timing belt, fuel pump (and other minor things such as oil/lube). Is there anything people recommend adding/subtracting from the list?
2. What is the approximate cost through a mechanic? I'm finding plenty of people who have done it at home but no one has even an approximate cost for doing it in a shop.

Thanks!

[AussieAndy Find all posts View Profile Close AussieAndy]

All it really is is oil & filter and timing belt. Just the basic service through a private mechanic should run you around the $250-300 mark. Then there are any extras that may be found while in there. They include the timing belt hydraulic tensioner and tensioner pully and also the water pump may be leaking as can the cam oil seal. All easy to do though

[JimmyC Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close JimmyC]

So I booked it in for a couple of weeks from now. At this stage they'll be doing timing belt, water pump (since they're in that part of the engine) and the other minor aspects of the service.
Still reading threads about if doing the fuel pump is worth it or not.
Any thoughts?

[AussieAndy Find all posts View Profile Close AussieAndy]

I have never done the fuel pump, and I have never seen one have an issue yet. But that is just me, others may have different experiences or oppinions

[snapper49 Member Find all posts View Profile Close snapper49]

For the 150k service its actually the transfer pump between the 2 tanks
The pump itself costs somewhere between 6 and 8 hundred dollars depending on who you ask Then there is the labour involved dropping the tank etc
Timing belt also gets changed
Around 1700 to 2000 dollars for a 150k service by the book from Toyota

I personally cant see why pump has to be changed I would leave it until it goes Only drawback would be that you would on
ly have 75 litres available for use

[AussieAndy Find all posts View Profile Close AussieAndy]

For the 150k service its actually the transfer pump between the 2 tanks
The pump itself costs somewhere between 6 and 8 hundred dollars depending on who you ask Then there is the labour involved dropping the tank etc
Timing belt also gets changed
Around 1700 to 2000 dollars for a 150k service by the book from Toyota

I personally cant see why pump has to be changed I would leave it until it goes Only drawback would be that you would on
ly have 75 litres available for use

You're exactly right, leave it until it dies! When it does it will just show an error on the fuel system, low fuel light flashing. Simple, fix it when it dies and use the money for more fuel for more trips.

[Limo Guy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Limo Guy]

Totally agree, I asked City Toyota and they don't replace it, haven't seen one fail.
As they said if one has the owner hasn't come to them for repairs.
Their comment was that certain things have to be done in Japan but why waste your money, "If it aint broke don't fix" was exact words from head mechanic.

[Riv39 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Riv39]

My in-tank pump was replaced under warranty at about 40,000. It was intermittently whining its little head off. No performance issues but way to noisy IMO. Shot bearing or the likes I suspect.

[Kumminatsu Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Kumminatsu]

Hey Guys,

Has anyone attempted to change the timing belt themselves?

My prado is up for its 150k service and I want to do it myself. I'm fairly confident on the tools, but would like to know of any problems before I come across them. I've tried buying the service manuals off of ebay (cd version) one was blank, no surprise, and the other would not open the files in the index.... So plan B, ask you guys.

Does anyone know how to reset the t-belt warning light?

Thanks

[Kumminatsu Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Kumminatsu]

Hey Guys,

Has anyone attempted to change the timing belt themselves?

My prado is up for its 150k service and I want to do it myself. I'm fairly confident on the tools, but would like to know of any problems before I come across them. I've tried buying the service manuals off of ebay (cd version) one was blank, no surprise, and the other would not open the files in the index.... So plan B, ask you guys.

Does anyone know how to reset the t-belt warning light?

Thanks

This is for anyone who might be trolling and looking for help on how to change the timing belt on their 150. I had trouble finding any info, I have a good understanding of how diesel engine operate so I went ahead and changed the belt myself. It was a very simple process, I used genuine Toyota Parts, and got the procedure for resetting the t-belt light while I was at Toyota. I'll stick it up at the end.

Step 1. Engine off, park brake on, transmission in neutral
Step 2. Disconnect the clip that secures the wiring harness to the timing belt cover. Located at top left of the cover.
Step 3. Remove the bolts from the timing belt cover and place cover in a secure location
Step 4. Rotate engine and line up the timing marks on both the camshaft pulley and the fuel pump pulley . If only one mark is aligned you will need to continue to rotate the engine (by hand) until both marks are aligned. The alignment mark for the cam shaft was at 12 o"clock and the mark for the fuel pump is at 3 o"clock.
Step 5. Using a paint pen or a similar marker, mark the belt with the pulley.
Step 6. Release the tension from the timing belt with a prybar or similar. Whilst releasing the tension, ensure that both of the pulleys remain timed to their marks. If they start to move do no remove the belt. Go back and double check that you have timed the engine correctly. You may be 180 out. (As I was replacing the hydraulic tensioner I just removed the tensioner assembly (2 bolts) which was a lot easier than using a pry bar to release the tension on the belt)
Step 7. Remove the belt
Step 8. Inspect the pulley. Replace if neccessary. If you're not confident just replace it, its cheap insurance. Otherwise just inspect it at each service as I do. It's only a handful of bolts.
Step 9. Transfer the marks from the old belt to your new belt. Ensure this is exact. It is your back up to make sure the belt is not out by a couple of teeth when refitting it to the pulley's
Step 10. Install the new belt ensuring that the marks that you transferred over from the old belt line up with your marks on the pulley's. Start with biggest pulley first (fuel Pump). If you didn't remove the belt tensioner at the beginning you will need to use a prybar to move the idler pulley to allow the belt to slip over the cam and fuel pump pulleys, and skip step 11.
Step 11. Once you're satisfied that your marks on the belt and pulleys line up and the timing marks on the pulleys still line up with their timing marks go ahead and install your new hydraulic tensioner. Do not remove the pin until the tensioner is installed! This pin holds the little hydraulic arm down inside its housing, once it is removed the arm will extend out pushing the idler pulley towards the timing belt. Only once the tensioner is installed go ahead and remove the pin. There should now be tension on your new timing belt.
Step 12. Double check your marks and the timing marks to ensure they align. Before you start your engine (you can do this with the cover removed, just keep your hands clear) if you're not confident I recommend that you rotate your engine by hand two full revolutions. If at any stage your engine locks up during this process, do not start it, you have not timed your engine correctly and should probably call a mechanic to come and fix your mistake. Otherwise go ahead and start it, as you've left the cover off inspect the rotating belt quickly for any alignment issues. If ok shut her down.
Step 13. Refit the cover and take her for a test run.
Step 14. Fill out and install the sticker to your timing cover that came with the belt. If you bought genuine.
Step 15. Crack open a stubbie, tell the missus how cleaver you are and have a go at resetting T-belt warning light.

Reset procedure for warning light.

[JimmyC Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close JimmyC]

Great write up. Might be worth putting it in its own thread so it can be used by others for future reference. I'd attempt that but after the EGR fiasco (see my latest posts) I vowed not to touch anything else on my engine.

[AussieAndy Find all posts View Profile Close AussieAndy]

As to the marks on the belt, the genuine belt already comes with two yellow lines that line up with the timing marks to make sure the slack is on the right side. Also I always remove the hydraulic tensioner and never use a lever the depress the tensioner, it's too easy to slip and damage something. If not replacing the tensioner you can compress it in a vice and use a Allen key as a pin to hold it compressed to reinstall.

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Also add a step between 1 and 2 - remove battery neg lead, and refit it after 13..

[AussieAndy Find all posts View Profile Close AussieAndy]

Also add a step between 1 and 2 - remove battery neg lead, and refit it after 13..

Nah, not nessercary if you are sure of what you are doing, you don't actually remove any electrical components. Plus, who wants to waste time resetting the clock.....

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Yeah but this is a how to guide for "numpties" not trained mechanics like us..