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Ran the 150 out of oil........

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  • Ran the 150 out of oil........

    Had an incident where the oil filter was not screwed on tight after a general service. Car drove 3.2 klm and pumped out at least 6 litres of the sump. I didn't get an oil light 'til the last seconds of driving and pulled over and shut down immediately. Unfortunately I was in the process of accelerating to 100 kph as the speed limit had changed. Turbo is damaged but trying to ascertain if the engine may have survived.

    Wondering if anyone can either describe or point me to a diagram that shows oil flow. Does it go from sump pickup to pump to oil filter then to lubrication channels or is the oil filter the last in the sequence. It will make a difference in trying to determine the likelihood of engine damage along with oil pressure and compression checks.

    Any other suggestions or opinions would be welcome. The engine sounds good, seems to run just as well, but if the turbo got damaged (it's getting replaced at this stage) there's no doubt that oil starvation was an issue.

  • #2
    I'd get the turbo fixed, and if it runs ok drive it gently to the nearest dealer and trade it in...

    Comment


    • #3
      First question is did you do the service yourself, if not then workshop that did is responsible and I would push for a replacement engine.

      Lee
      '18 VX, Billies with Dobinson springs, Summit bar with Narva Enhanced Optics to help my old eyes

      Comment


      • #4
        My wife’s car’s engine seized after the mechanic didn’t clamp the bottom radiator hose back on. It popped off on a highway at night & seized the motor, steering wheel locked and she had to try and steer it off the road, nearly dropped it sidewards into a 3 foot deep vertical ditch in the dark. It was covered by the mechanic’s insurance & she was without a car for 3 weeks as a result while the mechanic responsible came into work earlier each morning to work on it. I hope you had a mechanic who was responsible for it. If it was a diy job.... Ouch!
        2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by PradoJim View Post

          Wondering if anyone can either describe or point me to a diagram that shows oil flow. Does it go from sump pickup to pump to oil filter then to lubrication channels or is the oil filter the last in the sequence. It will make a difference in trying to determine the likelihood of engine damage along with oil pressure and compression checks.
          starts at the pump , feeds the crankshaft , balance shafts then goes to the filter - https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/15...engine_eng.htm
          driveway
          Lurker
          Last edited by driveway; 27-08-2020, 06:46 AM. Reason: spelling

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by driveway View Post

            starts at the pump , feeds the crankshaft , balance shafts then goes to the filter - https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/15...engine_eng.htm
            Pump > relief valve > oil filter > oil cooler > oil gallery to rest of engine (crank, balance shafts, turbo, camshafts)
            Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by adrian5800 View Post

              Pump > relief valve > oil filter > oil cooler > oil gallery to rest of engine (crank, balance shafts, turbo, camshafts)
              Thanks. That'd be bad news then. Hitting the leaking filter before going on. If it was as driveway describes (and thanks for your response as well), that'd be good news.

              Thanks for all the tips. I do understand the trade-it-in logic but like so many 4x4, heaps spent on it. Locker, lift, GVM upgrade and engineering, tyres, secondary A/T cooler, electrical work and the list goes on.

              It wasn't me. It was the garage. He has readily come to the party re the Turbo. That's an easy one because of the new turbo sound the car has Lol........ (and cry).

              From a friend of a friend who is a senior lecturer at Sydney TAFE on diesels and instructs the other instructors, he feels that engine damage is unlikely if the rpm did not exceed 2000 rpm. It wouldn't have as it was a gentle acceleration up to 100 which is around 1920 rpm with my slightly bigger tyres.

              However, while I am pushing for a complete engine, it's sticky. There is no doubt that the engine dumping 80% of its oil while accelerating to 100 kph is outside of design parameters, the mechanic (and business owner) at this stage is saying "well it's performing well and there's no untoward engine noise".

              I've asked Toyota to perhaps make an assessment but the question is who will pay? I know who SHOULD pay, but Toyota won't do the inspection until someone signs on the line to fund the work.

              Ideally it involves pulling the sump off and visually inspecting the big ends for discoloration (as well as oil pressure and compression tests and boroscope down the cylinders). The local Toyota has to check and get back to me if dropping the sump can be done in-situ. They're not sure it can. Now we're talking bigger dollars for the inspection if it can't.

              Will report back.

              Comment


              • #8
                1: Ignore your lecturer mate, there's a reason dead wood always ends up at TAFE teaching people the wrong things.
                2: As a mechanic has done it, lawyer up and push for a replacement engine. Whilst it may appear fine now, in a years time if it lets go you are on your own.
                3: You owe the mechanic nothing, he has admitted liability by replacing the turbo, again,. go see a lawyer or your motoring organisation of your state, RAA RACV etc. .
                4: If obtainable, obtain a sample of the oil and send off to CAT to have it tested. Then again, push for a replacement engine.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Unfortunately these engines have a lot more rotating parts than just a crank and rods.
                  Balance shafts are a worry even on a good one, let alone one without oil pressure.
                  Too many variables. What replace the turbo and nothing else.
                  The workshop will have insurance for just this eventuality, so push for a new engine, or at least a pro rata by considering the existing mileage.
                  Either way, an engine in/out will leave scratches, insulation rips and broken clips etc.
                  She’s not going to look anything like it does now.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Piggy, that's what I'm worried about. Engine's good for several hundred thousand klm, this one's got 100k. How much life has been shaved off? He hasn't replaced the turbo yet, It only happened last Monday. Insurance says will not provide a new engine, just a used one of less klm. That's concerning on its own, something that's sat in a wrecker's shed, unknown history.

                    Carco, thank you. Hard truths. A real bugger. Mechanic's now saying that turbo whine in Prado is not unusual anyway and "I should just drive it". I'll be down to speak face to face tomorrow, this is a load of crap. No diesel mechanic in the country's going to say "she'll be right, drive on" after hearing what happened.

                    Most importantly, it wasn't the oil light that twigged me to the problem, it was the high pitched chirping sounds that started coming out the car when I reached 100kph and the lack of response to throttle. THEN the oil light came on. Toyota reckons those chirping sounds were probably the turbo nipping up. I reckon it was a bee's dick away from seizing.

                    Thanks all.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      As Piggy & Carco have posted far too much potential for damage throughout the engine to not investigate.
                      I would prefer a low milage second hand engine to keeping the original without internal examination as the lesser of the two evils. To my mind your engine will have damage/wear from lack of oil as such to do nothing is in effect lighting a fuse to internal failure with the only unknown being how long is the fuse. Good luck with which ever way you go.

                      Lee
                      '18 VX, Billies with Dobinson springs, Summit bar with Narva Enhanced Optics to help my old eyes

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        1/ NO face to face. Put everything in writing from this point on.

                        2/ His insurance or your insurance? If the latter, step back. It's not your problem nor your insurance companies issue. Its his problem.

                        3/ It doesn't matter on the age of your engine, it was fine when it went in. Push for a new long block at minimum or a complete rebuild.

                        4/ Contact your local motoring organisation (RAA RACQ RACV etc) and they will come to bat for you on legal advise and outcome directions.

                        5/ Do not accept a new turbo or anything at this point, its a token offering to hopefully see you go away. (And guaranteed if it nips the engine up in 50,000 they'll deny all responsibility and pass it on to you and others that have touched it since). Again, refuse this and say a new turbo can be fitted with a new engine.

                        6/ As said before, ask for a sample of the oil from said engine, you don't need much. and send off to CAT for diagnosis. Its about $30 for a sample kit and they will mail it out. This will tell you how much metal is in the oil. (But I wouldn't be surprised if old mate has gotten rid of it already.. know what i mean).

                        7/ Again, put EVERYTHING in writing only. You are about to face a serious battle against them to recoup what they have cost you with their negligence (Remember that word).. Ask for an email address and CC yourself on each and every email. Also set your computer to ask for read receipts from them when you send.

                        8/ Again. Do not accept anything at this stage unless it is in writing and comprises of a new engine and turbo.


                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Having physically seen a motor run low on on oil after only 200 metres and the big ends are destroyed , push back and go for a new motor, it doesn't matter the km's on it now, he stuffed up and that what insurance is for end of day.
                          2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit

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                          • #14
                            Agree with others. No phone conversations or face to face. Email only. You need to build a case. New engine or rebuilt is what you should be chasing. Too many unknowns.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Kizbot, Piggy, Leethal and Bear63. Thank you. All noted. Have been keeping detailed notes since day 1 plus video and photo. Oil was dumped along road of course and then mechanic refilled it (now know it was min 6.5 litres of 7.8 sump). Have Oil kit but they require 1000 klm for valid test. Nevertheless, took a sample from the 13 klm drive home.

                              Car goes in for assessment this Thursday at mechanic of my choice. Of course I have to pay everything including tilt truck to and from with assurance of all will be included in final pay out when agreed. Could be a long one. Has been over 3 weeks without car alrady.

                              Comment

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