Posted this on the 1GR Facebook group - copying here in case it's of value.
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OK, long Fuel Economy post, in case this can help someone else. I don't care anywhere near as much as some of you do, BUT I will always support active groups with any info I have in the interest of giving back (y) and after seeing so many posts (not just here), I have paid some attention to it. This is not for those seeing 20L per hundred on your normal commute, that's a different issue.
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Car is 2010 Prado GXL Auto with 70ks, it has the following economy affecting mods (either weight or performance related impact on economy IMO).
- ARB Steel Winch Bar
- Winch
- Dual Battery
- Onboard Compressor
- Safari Snorkel
- 2" Lift
- Side steps
- KO2s in 265/70 - Speedo is almost dead on GPS speed so I trust distance travelled as it's bang on GPS distances. Run at 40psi.
- Throttle controller.
- Airbox restrictor removed.
- aFe Dry filter.
- OBD2 Dongle + Torque Pro to help me see some extra parameters.
- Runs on Apco 95, economy is simply worse on 91 and it's even more gutless, and it's hardly fast now. Have not tested Shell/BP, economy could be even better for all I know but I highly doubt it - when switching fuels you must give the car a few tanks to adjust, you can also reset the ECU if you like.
***************
I live in hilly terrain and do about 50ks a day round trip to work and back/pickup kids from school etc, until recently have been seeing close to 14L-14.2/100 for that loop, and usually mid 13s on the higway. I am now seeing low 13s on the work commute and on my recent trip to Bathurst it was 12.5L.
Bathurst was a 1009ks trip going from Vic up through Young/Coota etc. Rear cargo full to the seat line, just slabs/camping gear etc.
Here's my thoughts on why that's changed, but also what I've actively done to help. Some you may know/do already but in the interest of trying to prevent some of the fuel economy posts from new members, I'll include it all. Some of this may only be relevant to Prados, I don't know because I don't own a Hilux or FJ. This is also far more relevant to driving in hilly and undulating terrain, I don't do a big stints on long flat roads.
***************
** Toyota cruise control is terrible, do not use it on anything other than flat roads. The car constantly unlocks the converter (bad for trans temps and fuel burn). It's got terrible speed management and will drop to 4th on an incline and overshoot the set speed by as much as 7-8km/h I have seen. Useless. I am having much better results driving the car without cruise in hilly terrain, which seems stupid for a modern car
***************
** Conservation of momentum within the realm of legal speeds. Depending on traffic, I will allow the car to wash off some speed on inclines and gain some extra speed on declines if there's another incline following it.
On an incline I will attempt to modulate throttle to keep the convertor locked up, but if that's not possible due to grade or length of the incline or traffic behind, will try to minimise throttle input to the lowest numbers on the instant econ gauge required to maintain a reasonable speed vs distance to the top of the incline.
Conserving momentum is critical though, if you let the car instantly wash off 20km/h at the very start of a long incline and just sit at 80km/h for the rest you will have gained nothing. You want to hit the bottom of the climb at the speed limit (maybe even a little more if you just come off a decline but stay safe and legal *cough*) and simply let it slowly bleed off a little speed as you climb rather than maintaining a flat 100 all the way. The goal is to keep the convertor locked as long as possible, and out of 4th if possible. Lock up kits can also help this and I'm told Raptor tunes will also assist here (do your own research here).
***************
** Throttle control seems like an obvious one, but I have found that with the throttle controller set on Sport (Kings basic controller) I have much better and more timely control of the convertor lock up when climbing. I am fully aware how these things work and they are simply a ratio change of pedal vs throttle body, that is exactly what I wanted, smaller pedal input for greater throttle input. This give you no EXTRA power at all. Nothing that wasn't already there.
I've also found that on a longer climb, with the stock throttle, it's very easy to accidentally be slowly gaining a little speed as the pedal feel is so dead. This shows up as instant econ figures of 25-28L while climbing. The throttle controller makes this more pronounced so you get much better at feathering the throttle and I now climb those same hills at say 21-22, and in some sections where the grade backs off a little, can get the convertor to lock up again and econ will drop to 18L for that section of the climb.
***************
** Trans Temp is harder to "control" but appears to have an impact also. When the pan temp is too low, fluid pressures are higher and the convertor will not lock up as early, meaning we're seeing those 21-22 or more instant figures on a climb vs 18-19L for that same climb when locked. As the ambient temps have gone up, econ for me has gotten better as a result, I leave early for work and do 2-3ks before I'm into a climb. I do let the car idle for a short period, but not excessively.
***************
So there's my 2 cents in an attempt to help anyone who might benefit from the info. This is only relevant to my car, your results may vary considerably. This also ignores big things like removing weight (roof racks, roof tents, big bullbars etc), smaller tyres, lowering the ride height etc, all of which can have considerable impact on economy if you're chasing it.
By all means share your conflicting findings as our usage/cars all vary so what has helped me may very well hinder someone else and vice versa. Please remember though, I've got no personal stake in the outcomes so have no interest in arguing about any of it, but will happily answer questions though.
***************
Also important, saving 1L per hundred k's doesnt save you that much money so weigh up if you think it's worth the effort and drive how you like. I will only keep this car for 3-5yrs I'd say so my view of the world may be different to yours.
Compare 13 to 14L per hundred, travel 20,000ks a year and spend on average 1.45 per litre and it looks like this.
- 20ks @ 13L per hundred = 2600L of fuel, @ $1.45L = $3770
- 20ks @ 14L per hundred = 2800L of fuel, @ $1.45L = $4060
- $290 saved.
That $290 will buy you 200L of fuel at $1.45, so at 13L you could go another 1538ks for the year for the same money if you wanted to.
Thats for a year though, for a single tank it looks like this (assuming a usage of 140L from the 150L tank as a guide). 140L will cost us $203 at $1.45L
- 140L @ 13L per hundred is approx 1077ks for your $203, or $18.85 per 100ks.
- 140L @ 14L per hundred is approx 1000ks for your $203, or $20.30 per 100ks.
Not a huge difference per tank, but it can add up over many years or huge k's.
***********************
OK, long Fuel Economy post, in case this can help someone else. I don't care anywhere near as much as some of you do, BUT I will always support active groups with any info I have in the interest of giving back (y) and after seeing so many posts (not just here), I have paid some attention to it. This is not for those seeing 20L per hundred on your normal commute, that's a different issue.
***************
Car is 2010 Prado GXL Auto with 70ks, it has the following economy affecting mods (either weight or performance related impact on economy IMO).
- ARB Steel Winch Bar
- Winch
- Dual Battery
- Onboard Compressor
- Safari Snorkel
- 2" Lift
- Side steps
- KO2s in 265/70 - Speedo is almost dead on GPS speed so I trust distance travelled as it's bang on GPS distances. Run at 40psi.
- Throttle controller.
- Airbox restrictor removed.
- aFe Dry filter.
- OBD2 Dongle + Torque Pro to help me see some extra parameters.
- Runs on Apco 95, economy is simply worse on 91 and it's even more gutless, and it's hardly fast now. Have not tested Shell/BP, economy could be even better for all I know but I highly doubt it - when switching fuels you must give the car a few tanks to adjust, you can also reset the ECU if you like.
***************
I live in hilly terrain and do about 50ks a day round trip to work and back/pickup kids from school etc, until recently have been seeing close to 14L-14.2/100 for that loop, and usually mid 13s on the higway. I am now seeing low 13s on the work commute and on my recent trip to Bathurst it was 12.5L.
Bathurst was a 1009ks trip going from Vic up through Young/Coota etc. Rear cargo full to the seat line, just slabs/camping gear etc.
Here's my thoughts on why that's changed, but also what I've actively done to help. Some you may know/do already but in the interest of trying to prevent some of the fuel economy posts from new members, I'll include it all. Some of this may only be relevant to Prados, I don't know because I don't own a Hilux or FJ. This is also far more relevant to driving in hilly and undulating terrain, I don't do a big stints on long flat roads.
***************
** Toyota cruise control is terrible, do not use it on anything other than flat roads. The car constantly unlocks the converter (bad for trans temps and fuel burn). It's got terrible speed management and will drop to 4th on an incline and overshoot the set speed by as much as 7-8km/h I have seen. Useless. I am having much better results driving the car without cruise in hilly terrain, which seems stupid for a modern car
***************
** Conservation of momentum within the realm of legal speeds. Depending on traffic, I will allow the car to wash off some speed on inclines and gain some extra speed on declines if there's another incline following it.
On an incline I will attempt to modulate throttle to keep the convertor locked up, but if that's not possible due to grade or length of the incline or traffic behind, will try to minimise throttle input to the lowest numbers on the instant econ gauge required to maintain a reasonable speed vs distance to the top of the incline.
Conserving momentum is critical though, if you let the car instantly wash off 20km/h at the very start of a long incline and just sit at 80km/h for the rest you will have gained nothing. You want to hit the bottom of the climb at the speed limit (maybe even a little more if you just come off a decline but stay safe and legal *cough*) and simply let it slowly bleed off a little speed as you climb rather than maintaining a flat 100 all the way. The goal is to keep the convertor locked as long as possible, and out of 4th if possible. Lock up kits can also help this and I'm told Raptor tunes will also assist here (do your own research here).
***************
** Throttle control seems like an obvious one, but I have found that with the throttle controller set on Sport (Kings basic controller) I have much better and more timely control of the convertor lock up when climbing. I am fully aware how these things work and they are simply a ratio change of pedal vs throttle body, that is exactly what I wanted, smaller pedal input for greater throttle input. This give you no EXTRA power at all. Nothing that wasn't already there.
I've also found that on a longer climb, with the stock throttle, it's very easy to accidentally be slowly gaining a little speed as the pedal feel is so dead. This shows up as instant econ figures of 25-28L while climbing. The throttle controller makes this more pronounced so you get much better at feathering the throttle and I now climb those same hills at say 21-22, and in some sections where the grade backs off a little, can get the convertor to lock up again and econ will drop to 18L for that section of the climb.
***************
** Trans Temp is harder to "control" but appears to have an impact also. When the pan temp is too low, fluid pressures are higher and the convertor will not lock up as early, meaning we're seeing those 21-22 or more instant figures on a climb vs 18-19L for that same climb when locked. As the ambient temps have gone up, econ for me has gotten better as a result, I leave early for work and do 2-3ks before I'm into a climb. I do let the car idle for a short period, but not excessively.
***************
So there's my 2 cents in an attempt to help anyone who might benefit from the info. This is only relevant to my car, your results may vary considerably. This also ignores big things like removing weight (roof racks, roof tents, big bullbars etc), smaller tyres, lowering the ride height etc, all of which can have considerable impact on economy if you're chasing it.
By all means share your conflicting findings as our usage/cars all vary so what has helped me may very well hinder someone else and vice versa. Please remember though, I've got no personal stake in the outcomes so have no interest in arguing about any of it, but will happily answer questions though.
***************
Also important, saving 1L per hundred k's doesnt save you that much money so weigh up if you think it's worth the effort and drive how you like. I will only keep this car for 3-5yrs I'd say so my view of the world may be different to yours.
Compare 13 to 14L per hundred, travel 20,000ks a year and spend on average 1.45 per litre and it looks like this.
- 20ks @ 13L per hundred = 2600L of fuel, @ $1.45L = $3770
- 20ks @ 14L per hundred = 2800L of fuel, @ $1.45L = $4060
- $290 saved.
That $290 will buy you 200L of fuel at $1.45, so at 13L you could go another 1538ks for the year for the same money if you wanted to.
Thats for a year though, for a single tank it looks like this (assuming a usage of 140L from the 150L tank as a guide). 140L will cost us $203 at $1.45L
- 140L @ 13L per hundred is approx 1077ks for your $203, or $18.85 per 100ks.
- 140L @ 14L per hundred is approx 1000ks for your $203, or $20.30 per 100ks.
Not a huge difference per tank, but it can add up over many years or huge k's.
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