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  • Cambelt Replacement

    Hello
    I have the 1999/2000 KZJ95 Turbo diesel 3.0L.
    Its done almost 600000k so its time i did the cambelt and affiliated items.
    Ive done the timing valves on my Ferguson tractor, it has push rods but ive never done a cambelt before.
    Ive done some work on this car before including all the filters, replacing the transfer case seals, cv joint replacement, and also i removed and fixed up the front diff after the pinon nut came loose and she blew out the bearings in there. All those fixs have being successful so im arrogant enough to attempt this job and i read its not the hardest cambelt to change.

    I do have some questions id appreciate being answered.
    I often buy boat motors with blown rings and i do them up for my own use. Il replace the damaged piston and ring but i wont re-ring the whole motor, this is my state of repairs i dont do the optimal best just enough to satisfactorily keep it going, so im wondering what i actually need to do on this motor to keep up to a reasonable level of maintenance without spending the rainy day reserves.
    None of the kits offer any discount here in NZ, they are just all inclusive in one piece of plastic wrapping, so not something to jump for automatically.

    So do i need to buy the tensioner and the idle pulley or in peoples experience do these pieces of equipment generally last well?
    Also one chap has told me to do the waterpump too because when you put in a new belt it will put new pressure on the waterpump and that will then start to fail. Does anyone have any experience with that?
    Thanks in advance

  • #2
    600,000k, she would have had quite a few cam belts then.
    It's got to be the easiest belt change I've ever done.
    Remove the belt cover, 27mm ??? socket on the balancer bolt and wind her around to TDC with No1 firing, make the dots line up.
    Remove the tensioner assembly (2-10mm head setscrews) and the old belt is now falling off.
    Take your old tensioner to the vice or press and squeeze the hydraulic rod back in until the lock holes line up, whack a suitable Allen key right through to hold her. (Make sure of orientation so you can pull out the Allen key when the tensioner is re-fitted)
    I would replace the tensioner pulley, it's pretty cheap in a kit and then you know the bearings are good. You can also replace the hydraulic tensioner assembly too but from my experience they last forever.
    Water pump ???? has nothing to do with this job. It's up to you if you want to replace it as you know the car's history.
    After those decisions are done, fit your new timing belt, might need to adjust crank or cam a touch until you get her sitting nicely with the pulling side nicely under tension and the dots lined up. New belt may even have marks on it, some do, some don't.
    Fit your tensioner assembly, torque up those baby setscrews then pull the Allen key out.
    Belt is tensioned.
    Wind her around a couple of times and a final check that the dots are all good then put the cover back.
    You'll probably have to reset the light in the dash but that's going to depend on your model. Some are easy peasy via the trip reset button, older model will need the cluster out to get at the back of the speedo.

    Comment


    • #3
      I was hoping for a reply like that. Thanks a lot Carco.
      The good thing was the previous owner was a Tractor Company who ran up massive kilometres but got all servicing done exactly according to Toyota and done by Toyota including a new head at 300k
      Just one further question (which is a testament to how good your write up was) . In Toyotas parts list there is a seal mentioned, a cam seal, does that ever catastrophically fail and should be replaced as a precaution, or should i look for signs of weepage and order it only then if needs be?

      Comment


      • #4
        I never replace seals unless they show signs of weeping.
        It's so hard to get the surface suitably clean/linished to take the new sealing position with the result most replacement seals running on old shafts start weeping straight away.
        It adds to the job quite a lot too.
        Cam wheel obviously has to come off and I guess one could lever out the old seal without removing the whole seal retainer.
        But you still have to hold the cam to torque up the cam wheel bolt which means the cam cover has to come off to grab the cam with your big spanner, and that means a new gasket.
        They can be a bit of a trick to fit and then not leak.
        I also wonder why stop at the cam seal. May as well do the front crank seal too, perhaps even the rear main. Then there's the injector pump, vacuum pump, power steer pump...you see where I'm going.
        As your car has so many miles up, there's the chance she will need a rebuild in the future and that would be the time when the crank gets re-ground, all seal surfaces linished everything spotless and new again.
        Photo of a workshop job that replaced cam belt, seals, water pump, tensioner and idler. Seals were leaking immediately. You can see how difficult it is to clean the seal working area on the cam, there's just no room.

        Comment


        • #5
          Fully understood, no doubt at all after reading that, that seals staying right where she is.
          The one thing left before i go get parts ( i live in the country in rural NZ so i try to get everything i need in one go) is that you mentioned the tensioner bolt need head set screws torqued up. Can i do this with my Allen Key set or do i need to do it precisely with my torque wrench and thus buy the Hex set to do this with, it seems to be a 10mm hex on the idler pulley from what i can see from pictures.
          Many thanks again

          Comment


          • #6
            The tensioner bracket has a 10mm Allen head stepped bolt as its hinge point.
            It's torqued up to 25ft lbs, nothing too serious here.
            The hydraulic tensioner unit has the 2-10mm hex head setscrews as fixings.
            They're torqued up to 9 ft lbs, baby stuff but then the bolts are tiny.
            I doubt many DIY'ers have a baby torque wrench for the 9ft lbs ones, you should be able to do them by "feel".
            Even 25 ft lbs can be estimated by most.
            ALDI sell a handy & cheap ½" drive torque wrench. You'll pay a lot more for a small ¼" drive inch pounds torque wrench though.
            Stay away from the electronic stuff, invariably they die just when needed.

            Comment


            • #7
              I went to the Toyota dealer today. The cambelt was about $5 more than at a aftermarket place and the idler was actually cheaper so i was glad to buy genuine this time. I got the parts man to ask the technicians what the service interval is on the cambelt on these and he said that its now a change every 150000km. He said that this change happened in 1999. The partsman couldnt specify why and i didnt want to bother him to follow up on this but i wish i now had.
              So take from that what you each will. It means i dont need to do this straight away in my opinion so il wait til after ive gone on holiday with the girlfriend.
              Thanks for all your advice Carco, its being a good formula to follow, much better than those car repair books which a good at putting me off home repair, i will write up how i get on with this when i do do it. It wont be in the immediate future. Ive put the parts in a drawer away from vermin

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              • #8
                Originally posted by MikeyB View Post
                I went to the Toyota dealer today. The cambelt was about $5 more than at a aftermarket place and the idler was actually cheaper so i was glad to buy genuine this time. I got the parts man to ask the technicians what the service interval is on the cambelt on these and he said that its now a change every 150000km. He said that this change happened in 1999. The partsman couldnt specify why and i didnt want to bother him to follow up on this but i wish i now had.
                So take from that what you each will. It means i dont need to do this straight away in my opinion so il wait til after ive gone on holiday with the girlfriend.
                Thanks for all your advice Carco, its being a good formula to follow, much better than those car repair books which a good at putting me off home repair, i will write up how i get on with this when i do do it. It wont be in the immediate future. Ive put the parts in a drawer away from vermin
                The few I have done (at both mileage and calendar limits) have all come off looking like they would go a fair bit longer, no cracks/wear etc. Barring contamination by, say, oil then I suspect they would probably go 150K, wihich would line them up nicely for a waterpump change and valve clearance check as well. And good move doing the tensioner!

                Comment

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