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Huge power loss after 10 minutes, 1998 Diesel I need help!
Hi Everyone. Here's a run down on our Prado.
Toyota Prado 1KZ-TE KZJ95W-GKPS 1998 turbo diesel automatic Import
K&N air filter, boost gauge, duel batteries otherwise standard, religiously serviced every 5000km
Here what's happening:
Months ago When it played up you could turn off car for 15mins and then all ok
We drove for an hour all fine, got stuck in traffic for an hour car idleing once free of congestion accelerated and had no power and blew black smoke. This was 4 months ago. Haven't seen black smoke since.
Now-
It's always Fine on start up for first 10 minutes, have full power, idles fine and runs normal till after 10 minutes u accelerate as normal to get up a hill and u start slowing right down(20kph), when loss of power is happening the check engine light is on. When descending hill or flat road on light throttle light goes off and you can creep it up to 100kph if your lucky. If u floor throttle in any instance light will eventually come on.
Up a hill If you gently accelerated or booted throttle no speed increase at all it wont rev past 3200rpm, it will drop down gears and have 9psi boost but won't rev over 3200rpm. A few times a month or so ago it did shudder and blow black smoke now it doesn't miss or surge or splutter just feels like it's lost the turbo and has no power. It pulls 9psi from 2000rpm to 3500rpm its like the engine realises it needs more power and giving max boost.
If turn car off for 15 mins a few minutes later problem re appears.
Engine does not miss or splutter at all. Free revs fine but as soon as load on engine it can't handle it and CEL comes on and loss of power.
I'm getting a error code 14 - timing control valve.
I have put ecu into test mode and still getting code 14.
I have tried scanning the ecu but techstream won't connect, possibly because using an adaptor cable from diagnostic port to obm2.
10.4 ohms on TCV
12.6v on TCV
Swapped edc relay.
Basically want to prove it's not ecu fault before I remove injector pump and get it all checked out (big $$$$)
I have done a lot of work proving it's not air in fuel line. Presently PVC fuel hose from tank to fuel filter in engine bay, I have had a clear hose from filter to fuel pump and initially thought I had air as I could see some when videoing it while driving but I think it was the air trapped in line when I installed the clear line as after an hour of driving haven't seen any more air in line.
Ideas-
Replace TCV valve, TCV getting hot and not doing it's job?
Connect to ecu and check sensor values, it feels like it's going into limp mode like the ecu is retricting the amount of fuel being delivered, possibly a sensor giving incorrect info to ecu causing limp mode?
Spill control valve getting hot not doing its job?
Fuel pump gets hot and losing internal pressure and not delivering enough fuel?
Done-
6 fuel filters over 6 months. One a week ago.
Removed fuel tank, cleaned tank and strainer. No dirt found.
Cleaned air filter a week ago
Checked inlet from air box to turbo no blockages.
Removed intercooler checked butterfly and intake manifold for build up, all clean.
Removed fuel inlet hose and return hose from fuel pump that's mounted on motor all ok.
Blocked off EGR vacuum hose, noticed more power but lack of power issue still exists after 10 minutes.
I had been using injector cleaner once a week.
Tried pumping fuel primer when loss of power is happening no difference.
When remove fuel filler cap there is no vacuum present ie. air doesn't suck in when open fuel cap.
I've bypassed the fuel filter with a boat primer bulb to eliminate fuel filter sucking air but problem still there.
Removed and cleaned filter under banjo bolt on inlet to fuel pump also remove and clean return banjo bolt fitting.
Any help appreciated, it's our family car and we don't have $$ to take it to mechanic to start burning money diagnosing issues.
Toyota Prado 1KZ-TE KZJ95W-GKPS 1998 turbo diesel automatic Import
K&N air filter, boost gauge, duel batteries otherwise standard, religiously serviced every 5000km
Here what's happening:
Months ago When it played up you could turn off car for 15mins and then all ok
We drove for an hour all fine, got stuck in traffic for an hour car idleing once free of congestion accelerated and had no power and blew black smoke. This was 4 months ago. Haven't seen black smoke since.
Now-
It's always Fine on start up for first 10 minutes, have full power, idles fine and runs normal till after 10 minutes u accelerate as normal to get up a hill and u start slowing right down(20kph), when loss of power is happening the check engine light is on. When descending hill or flat road on light throttle light goes off and you can creep it up to 100kph if your lucky. If u floor throttle in any instance light will eventually come on.
Up a hill If you gently accelerated or booted throttle no speed increase at all it wont rev past 3200rpm, it will drop down gears and have 9psi boost but won't rev over 3200rpm. A few times a month or so ago it did shudder and blow black smoke now it doesn't miss or surge or splutter just feels like it's lost the turbo and has no power. It pulls 9psi from 2000rpm to 3500rpm its like the engine realises it needs more power and giving max boost.
If turn car off for 15 mins a few minutes later problem re appears.
Engine does not miss or splutter at all. Free revs fine but as soon as load on engine it can't handle it and CEL comes on and loss of power.
I'm getting a error code 14 - timing control valve.
I have put ecu into test mode and still getting code 14.
I have tried scanning the ecu but techstream won't connect, possibly because using an adaptor cable from diagnostic port to obm2.
10.4 ohms on TCV
12.6v on TCV
Swapped edc relay.
Basically want to prove it's not ecu fault before I remove injector pump and get it all checked out (big $$$$)
I have done a lot of work proving it's not air in fuel line. Presently PVC fuel hose from tank to fuel filter in engine bay, I have had a clear hose from filter to fuel pump and initially thought I had air as I could see some when videoing it while driving but I think it was the air trapped in line when I installed the clear line as after an hour of driving haven't seen any more air in line.
Ideas-
Replace TCV valve, TCV getting hot and not doing it's job?
Connect to ecu and check sensor values, it feels like it's going into limp mode like the ecu is retricting the amount of fuel being delivered, possibly a sensor giving incorrect info to ecu causing limp mode?
Spill control valve getting hot not doing its job?
Fuel pump gets hot and losing internal pressure and not delivering enough fuel?
Done-
6 fuel filters over 6 months. One a week ago.
Removed fuel tank, cleaned tank and strainer. No dirt found.
Cleaned air filter a week ago
Checked inlet from air box to turbo no blockages.
Removed intercooler checked butterfly and intake manifold for build up, all clean.
Removed fuel inlet hose and return hose from fuel pump that's mounted on motor all ok.
Blocked off EGR vacuum hose, noticed more power but lack of power issue still exists after 10 minutes.
I had been using injector cleaner once a week.
Tried pumping fuel primer when loss of power is happening no difference.
When remove fuel filler cap there is no vacuum present ie. air doesn't suck in when open fuel cap.
I've bypassed the fuel filter with a boat primer bulb to eliminate fuel filter sucking air but problem still there.
Removed and cleaned filter under banjo bolt on inlet to fuel pump also remove and clean return banjo bolt fitting.
Any help appreciated, it's our family car and we don't have $$ to take it to mechanic to start burning money diagnosing issues.
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