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Greasing tailshaft prob.

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  • Greasing tailshaft prob.

    I've greased this 2002 prado drive shaft previously and have probs (again) with rear cardan grease nipple not accepting grease - ie no old grease being forced from the universal. (All others give the familiar squirt noise and ooze.) Instead on this one nipple, grease is forced from nipple connection itself.

    I've removed the nipple and tested it with the grease gun - no probs. Upon refitting I noticed that the grease was being forced (under heavy pressure) from the nipple screw thread. It is not cross threaded and I daren't tighten further.

    Question - under normal circumstances, should old grease be visible coming from cardan universal?
    I'm considering removing tailshaft so that I can service it. But that means more woooork. Feel more comfortable just considering it.

    Any thoughts

  • #2
    I have had similar, if you hadn't of wrote grease coming out of thread I would have said grease gun not coupled properly.
    HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others


    • #3
      Looks like she’s cactus. Pull the shaft and fit a new uni.
      Last ones I bought for my 90 were $25 a pop, Hardy Spicer, so not much cost involved.


      • #4
        Thanks for the replies LeighW and Carco. Yes I was worried about the wooork part. But I think you're right - only way I'll get peace of mind on long trips. Funny thing is - everything feels good.

        As far as access goes, I've tried flexible hose on the gun and can just get it onto the grease nipple. But very difficult to disconnect as there's no room for fingers to hold nozzle while unscrewing it. Had to wedge screwdriver to stop it turning and turn the gun enough to get release.

        Wonder about plumbers tape on a separate extended nipple to get the connection outside the cardan joint. This extended one is screwed in just for the greasing process and then the original nipple being replaced for driving.

        Any other ideas - other than dropping the tailshaft each service?



        • #5
          heat, maybe heat the area up and then hit it with the grease gun again?


          • #6
            I use a degreaser air gun with boiling water to release salted up zippers on boats. I’d use that as a heat source over a heat gun as I recollect the uni joints have a rubber seal in them. Wouldn’t want to melt anything just in case. More than likely dried up grease blocking the capillary. Jim


            • #7
              You could just undo the rear flange which will allow the shaft to drop. Then you can work the joint a bit, feel if it’s smooth or lumpy as it rotates the needle bearings. Open it out to get better access to the centre nipple and cross. Perhaps even remove the nipple and probe the tube.
              The centre nipple position is nice and protected but can be hard to fit some grease nozzles on, especially the top joint of the shaft.
              Aftermarket will often have the nipple on the end of one cup.
              Might be more prone to damage but you can remove the nipple and probe the tube.
              I’ve never damaged one, guess it’s no worse than the spline nipple.
              But if you’re heading off on a trip, I’d give it a new joint.


              • #8
                Thanks everyone, I got it to move by dropping the tailshaft cleaning then a micro of heat via hot water and detergent - anyhow finally it unstuck - still one cap blocked - but I'll run it like that as it feels good. I'll have another go at greasing when I can get another break. That's great for now though.

                Cheers All - much appreciated