Trying to drill through some stainless brackets that I need to mount onto my bullbar. I take it by killing two drill bits that a standard drill bit won't go through stainless ?? What type of drill bit do I need and would it be expensive ?? It's probably the only time I will drill through stainless. It's probably about 2mm thick (it's actually 2 GME brackets I'm modifying) or am I better of just calling into a metal fabrication place and getting them to drill 2x7mm holes ?? Cheers Steve
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Hey Steve, you need a bit marked HSS (High Speed Steel). All drill bits should have the type of bit marked on the shaft but I've noticed some don't. They aren't that expensive from the big green shed. Just make sure you get the right shaft (the standard round type most likely) to match your drill.
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As above, HSS preferably in a pedestal drill so you can apply pressure, also
use lube and as low a speed as practical.HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others
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A HSS or Cobalt bit will both do the job, the trick I found when drilling stainless steel boat rails etc. was to keep the drill speed down.
A high speed will quickly overheat and kill the drill bit, slow speed and some lubrication is the way to go.
Lee'18 VX, Billies with Dobinson springs, Summit bar with Narva Enhanced Optics to help my old eyes
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Also Steve don't rush it. Keep the bit sharp and cool, chilling and resharpening often if necessary. Cool the stainless as well as it will dull the bit faster if too hot.[SIZE=1]Cheers Jim.
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2009 120 D4D VX auto, pearl white with [COLOR=#0000cd]matching ARB deluxe bar,[/COLOR] 2" lift with [COLOR=#0000cd]OME springs & Nitro shocks,[/COLOR] 9000lb Warn winch, BFG KO A/Ts, Alloy Rhino roof basket, Safari snorkel, 2 x Optima D27F batteries, Voltage booster from Leigh, Jawa [SIZE=1]off-road camper trailer.[/SIZE][/COLOR]
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In that case, use lots of cutting fluid and drill in short bursts at lowest speed letting things cool down in between. Have someone dribble the cutting fluid onto the bit as it turns.
Or find someone with a pedestal drill you can use.2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]
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Steve, its like this, look after your shaft and the head, keep it lubricated and try not to get too excited with the speed. A steady rhythm (speed) will keep the whole experience a pleasurable one. Same process applies to drilling steel. Oh wait, that's all been said once or twice, just not with the same finesse.
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[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]
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LOLOL MLC, WELL I had it done for me by one of the blokes at work . He handled the whole situation and did it nice and slowly so it didn't get to hot, kept a steady hand and well lubricated and did it twice, he even put it up on a pedestal just to make it easier !!!!!! Ended up with a great finish as per picture. There are two original holes from the GME bracket, but had to drill another one just under the letter E so I could attach the black bracket with the allan key head[IMG]
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Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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As the others have said but if you do get the steel to hot it will work harden and with stainless makes it very difficult to then drill. Also try using a pilot drill (smaller drill) before using the actual sized drill you need.[B]Tasmania 2015 GTG Committee Member[/B] 2005 Prado Pilbara, Sovereign Bar, Driver & passenger weathershields, UHF TX3220, Spare wheel spaces, Lifestyle rack, Genuine front & midrow seatcovers, Genuine front & midrow rubber floor mats, ARB 47 litre fridge/freezer, Hilux washer jets, BF Goodridge A/T, Radiator protection plate, Dual battery tray and isolator, ARB 2.5m awning, Rhino heavy duty areo bars, MSA rear wheel bin, MAXTRAX
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Yea all done VK, one of the maintenance guys offered to do it for me. But yes everything mentioned here he did. Nice n slow, used a cooling/cutting paste and did it on a drill stand so all nicely lined up. The tips will come in handy for any further things I may need to do involving stainless, much appreciated... Cheers SteveFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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"Put it up on a pedals tool!!?,!" Now that's bragging.[B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]
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