Gramps 05 GXL

[Gramps]

Until I get to the GTG and win a set of max racks, I thought I'd knock a set up today. After a trip down to Bunnings for some anodised aluminium and some bolts, it was back home for some fun.

Materials: max trax mounting pins, Rhino Rack 8mm captive nut x4, m8 x 50mm nuts x3, square aluminium tube 900mm long x3, 90 degree plastic bend x2, plastic 4 way T piece x2, plastic end cap x4. I still need to get another 8mm Rhino Rack captive nut, m8 x 50mm nut and some nylock nuts for the max trax pins.

After working out the distance from the door to the bottom of the roof bars, cut 2x 70mm lengths and insert the 4 way T piece into each of them for the bottom max trax mounting hole. Then cut 2x 230mm lengths, connect to the 4 way T piece, top mounting hole done.

A 830mm length of aluminium connects the 2 mounting uprights. On the outside of the 830mm length, 2x 205mm long sections are needed to connect to the 90 degree bends. These are then connected to a 150mm (rear) and 130mm (front) section of aluminium which is then bolted to the roof bars using the captive nuts.

I have rubber inserted on the underside of my bars to stop the whistle from the wind which also stops the bars being scratched by the mounting pieces. This is the reason m8 x 50mm bolts are needed. If the rubber wasn't used, I think I could have got away with using 30mm bolts.

So far it has cost me $60 for the Bunnings materials and $27 for the Max Trax pins. Probably have another $10 to spend to finish it off, so I'm happy with the result.

[Davros]

When I ordered new suspension last year I ordered a diff drop kit from Andrew. I would highly recommend those with lifts install a diff drop kit. My vehicle is raised around 3" above standard and the cv's are nice and straight which means no loss of grease, and longer living cv's.

Andrew.... please PM me for my bank account details.

Seriously though... Andrew supplies a really good kit that is heaps cheaper than the competition and it is a ten minute job to fit. No brainer as far as I am concerned.

[Gramps]

That explains how my ABS lines were broken along with a few other PP'ers. I think WOZCLEAN had the same problem when he did his recently.

[Madkore]

I had the issue of my CV boots leaking after lifting the vehicle.

Like any rubber it decays/perishes over time therefore simply reclamping it may not fix the issue and if it does, it may only be an interim measure. I would think that if you are going to the effort of reclamping and regreasing the joints, for a little bit extra you may as well get new rubber boots. The new rubber will be more supple and will last longer.

How does the problem arise??? Is it because the angle of the cv's after the lift it too excessive?
If this is the case, would a diff drop kit help out?

No, it's cause the CVs were flexed so far down to get the strut in that doing this has disturbed the seal. With the way I change out the suspension now, the CVs or ABS lines do not have to move at all.

I still have stock of the diff drop kit but they are suitable for my plates without any additional bashplate spacers.

[ondaboat]

would a diff drop kit help out?

"AMTS" Andrew has diff drop kits, I think $40 not sure. I put one in mine but will now have another look at the CV's

[Gramps]

How does the problem arise??? Is it because the angle of the cv's after the lift it too excessive?
If this is the case, would a diff drop kit help out?

[iantz]

I've noticed the same thing with my boots. I might need to repack and re-clamp the boot.

[Gramps]

You will need to get new clamps on.

Will do, thanks.

How you've installed the radiator plate is spot on.

With the CV boots, yes the suspension upgrade is what caused it. The way that I swap out the suspension does not overextend the CV boots and no spring compressors required. You will need to get new clamps on. I got mine done at Greg's Alignment when we DIYed my suspension with iantz.

[Gramps]

Maybe the learned people among us can help.
When I had the bash plate off today, I noticed an amount of grease on the tyre side of the cv boots. I don't know if this was there before the lift or after.
Would the lift installation have stressed the cv's and pushed some grease out somehow????? I can't see any cracking in the boot and the grease is a dark grey colour.
Thanks

[Gramps]

Yesterday morning I called in to see AMTS and pick up a radiator bash plate. This sits between the factory bar and the first bash plate.

Steps involved:

*Cut tabs at the front of the bash plate.These tabs allow the plate to swing down from the rear but hinder the removal of the plate

*Remove 4 screws holding bash plate as well as the plate itself

*Re-insert front 2 screws partially to aid in marking up of holes in the base of the bar

*Locate new bash plate on screws at the rear and hold plate up to the base of the bar

*AMTS has designed the plate with elongated holes in the tabs at the front of the plate for those with/without a winch cradle. If you have the cradle, mark the bar using the front section of the hole. Mark at the rear of the hole if you don't have a winch cradle (this is what I did). When the winch cradle is installed, apparently the bar is push forward marginally.

*Remove plate and drill 2 holes in the bar. I ended up using a 10.5mm drill bit for supplied bolts. Remember, measure twice and drill once.

*Mount up new plate using the supplied bolts. Make sure the front tabs are on top of the bar and rubber washers are placed between plate and bar.

*Re-install existing bash plate starting from rear 2 bolts

*Screw in front 2 mounting bolts through existing and new plates. I found that the existing plate sits below the new, have to check with AMTS to see if this is what he intended.

All up this took me about an hour and that included applying and the drying of cold gal to the cuts in the existing plate where the tabs were removed. Thanks AMTS for another great looking and useful product, and for the chat yesterday.
Guys, for $120 this is worth the time of install and the knowledge that the radiator is well protected. Now to save for a full set of AMTS replacement bash plates.

[Gramps]

Question Gramps do Trek Tech have a website? How much was the slide?

Yes they do have a website, it's very basic with mostly photos. From talking to them, they seem to do anything from slides to fit outs.
My slide is for a 40L Engel so was $495.

[ondaboat]

I had Trek Tech make up one of their tilting fridge slide

Question Gramps do Trek Tech have a website? How much was the slide?
Hmm looks like an option for my second beer fridge

Good to see the getting ready for the GTG

[Madkore]

Was it your build up I saw this?? Good stuff, I liked it because it's removable if needed and no drilling required.

I think Matt was referring to the Hilux Jet Washer swap.