Spent today cleaning up some wiring in the engine bay. I swear, there were that many fuses coming off the main battery it was a total joke. Not sure what the last owner had connected, but I got rid of 3 power feeds that seemed to go nowhere. I moved 2 to the new fuse block but I can't find what these power.
The driving lights were switched to the 2nd battery. That way I'll be able to use them to help setting up camp at night. I just need to work out a way of switching between high beam and independently.
Also managed to install a socket in the rear for my fridge. Hidden away for 90% of the time, and out of the way when in use. I plan on cutting a small slot in the bottom of the cover for the power leed.
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Gramps 05 GXL
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I'll be interested in seeing the results in that project Gramps. Always been keen on a wipeable top surface where food and what-not is prepared. Just never been sure how to finish of the edge tidily where the carpet ends.
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Tomorrow, it's a trip down to BCF to get some gear to knock up a fold down table for the rear door.
It'll be a mix of carpet for the underside and lacquer on the top. The carpet will tie in with the drawer and the lacquer side will be easy to clean up spills. All trimmed around the edges with some aluminium. The picture in my head looks damn good, let's see how the finished product turns out.
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Measurements before:
Front Right :- Bottom of Rim(BoR) to Wheelarch - 735
Middle of Hub(MoH) to Wheelarch - 505
Front Left :- BoR to Wheelarch - 735
MoH to Wheelarch - 510
Rear Right :- BoR to Wheelarch - 785
MoH to Wheelarch - 555
Rear Left :- BoR to Wheelarch - 775
MoH to Wheelarch - 540
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Yeah baby! We are now that little further away from Terra Firma.
Lift installed today, and I could tell the difference straight away. The ride was a bit firmer and cornered flatter.
The wife only noticed the difference when getting out of the car, she slid down because the ground wasn't where she expected it to be. I had a bit of a chuckle, got a slap on the arm and told we just need a bulldog on the bonnet (Mack truck). Like F#%K........
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I'd better get the camera out this afternoon for some before shots. Lift goes in tomorrow and no questions asked from the other half.
I'll get some measurements of before and after to post along with the photos. Is measuring from the middle of the center cap to wheelarch preferred or from the bottom of the rim to wheelarch??
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Recovery points are now on and ready for action. I ended up drilling through the chassis and using the provided bolts.
Yesterday the Bilsteins arrived, yay. They look ever so good sitting next to the Dobinsons springs. Now to get them installed.
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The difference in strength / sheer capacity between a high tensile M10 and M12 is no where near as big as you might think. Crushing the vertical radiator member by using a straight out m12 is a bigger concern, and when you consider people snatch from tie down points regularly, I'm pretty sure an M10 upper bolt and lower M12 with after market recovery points is 1000% better already.Originally posted by Pradod View PostI don't think that goig down to an M10 bolt is a good idea, drill it and use the recommended bolts
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Not sure what brand it is as it was on when I bought the car. I won't see the Prado until the weekend, so I'll let you know then. No probs with the placement and hitting my knees in the Prado. I had one in the Xtrail in the same spot and didn't hit it too often. It came down to seat positioning with that car.Originally posted by iantz View PostGramps - two things.
1) Is that a Tekonsha Voyager brake controller? I have one that I need to install but not sure where to put it. I thought about the spot yours is in but was concerned about it hitting my knee/leg all the time. Are you finding this to be a problem?
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I don't think that goig down to an M10 bolt is a good idea, drill it and use the recommended bolts
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Gramps - two things.
1) Is that a Tekonsha Voyager brake controller? I have one that I need to install but not sure where to put it. I thought about the spot yours is in but was concerned about it hitting my knee/leg all the time. Are you finding this to be a problem?
2) Despite what people say, you don't need to widen the inner hole near the radiator. As has been discussed previously on this forum, doing up that top bolt crushes the radiator member. It just so happens that the outer hole is M12 and the inner M10. All you need to do is slide a crush tube in there, like the tube of an M12 Dyno bolt, and use a M10 HT bolt in the top hole, and an M12 in the lower hole. The crush tube stops the member from crushing in, and also saves you drilling near the radiator. I've done this and no problems whatsoever.
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