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Arti's Prado 120

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  • Arti's Prado 120

    Hello everybody!
    I have been following this forum for a long time. I am very thankful for your posts, since I found a lot of precious information in them and it really helped me during my build up process.

    Now I finally decided to join this awesome forum and share with you…

    We bought our Prado in December 2005. It was a stock VX, D-4D with 165HP and automatic transmission. It was used as an everyday vehicle but also for some light occasional offroading. In June 2011 and 190.000 km’s on the clock, my Prado was “reborn”. It was when I started modifying it. Suspension upgrade was the first thing as my standard air suspension had failed, after that everything went by inertion.



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    Engine/Performance

    Steinbauer module
    Safari snorkel
    Custom made 2.75” stainless steel exhaust system
    Second radiator fan
    Hilux bonnet scoop

    Drivetrain

    4.56 Nitro gears
    Front and rear ARB air lockers

    Suspension

    Old man emu + spacers (3.5” lift)
    Total Chaos UCA’s
    All Pro HD steering kit
    Total Chaos spindle gussets
    Total Chaos LCA cam tab gussets
    All Pro upper and lower, rear links
    Procomp wheels 17’x9
    35” x 12,5” Cooper Discoverer Stt

    Brakes

    DBA T2 rotors
    Extended stainless steel braided brake lines

    Armor

    ARB Sahara bar
    Custom made rear bar
    Custom made rock sliders
    Custom made: Engine, Gear box, t-case skid plates
    Custom made lower link skids

    Recovery

    Warn 12 XE Endurance with Dynatec 9x30 synthetic rope (front)
    Tabor 12K (back)
    Hi-lift Jack 48
    ARB hi-output compressor
    ARB Inflator with Gauge
    ARB recovery gear kit
    Bushranger tire repair kit
    Other…

    Lights/Electronics

    IPF 900 XS
    Optima yellow top dual batteries
    Depo boost gauge
    Prosport EGT gauge
    Prosport Oil temp. gauge
    Steinbauer in-cabin on/off switch
    VSC in-cabin on/off switch
    Winch fan in-cabin on/off switch

    Other

    Custom made drawer system
    Extended breathers: diffs, trans, t-case, fuel tank
    Last edited by Arti89; 29-11-2013, 08:53 AM.

  • #2
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    • #3
      Another awesome 120 on the forum! Thanks for sharing.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

      Comment


      • #4
        Pictures from last year. He was still growing…
        With 2.5” OME lift and 33” Coopers.



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        • #5
          Some more...

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          • #6
            What other changes did you make to fit the 35's? Did you modify the front body mounts? what about rear wheel arch clearance at full flex, does it rub?

            I am sure everyone would appreciate as much detail as possible about how you acheived this.

            Cheers Andrew
            [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

            [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

            [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


            [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

            Comment


            • #7
              Necessary modifications for proper 35” tire installation.

              1. Re-gear (4.56 or 4.88)
              2. 9”-11” rim width (if tires are 12.5” wide)
              3. Minimum 3 inch suspension lift
              4. Minimum -6mm. offset
              5. Dropping the front bump stops with 25mm.
              6. Limiting the steering radius (just a bit…, sorry! Don’t know exactly how much)
              7. Body mount chop
              8. Trimming the wheel arches, fenders (only the back side)
              9. Trimming the side bash plates of Sahara bar with 25mm.
              10. Hammering the inner part of the front wheel arch (only the back side)


              I used an online gear ratio calculator, which said that 4.47 would be the right ratio for the 35’s, as 4.56 being the closest numbers, I went with them. Now it has power, very much the same as with the stock tires and it’s very good, however, I would recommend going 4.88 because you will get all the lower ratio benefits
              .
              I needed 25mm. spacers to drop the front bump stops, otherwise the tires would have seriously rubbed the ARB bulbar when the suspension was fully compressed!

              Even with -6mm. offset which my Procomps offer, the wide 12.5’’ tires would rub on the sway bar at a full turn. So a minor limiting of the steering radius was necessary, otherwise greater offset must have been considered.

              I chopped the body mounts as close to the bushing as I possibly could. I welded a piece of metal to strengthen the mounts. Now I have only 1-2 mm. distance with the tire when the suspension is compressed and the wheels are turned. So, in the worst case scenario, a minor rubbing at the body mounts might be possible.

              The trimming of the front wheel arches depends on the offset you’re running; with my -6 mm. offset, I had to trim only the back side with approx. 30 mm. Rear wheel arches would depend on the wheelbase. When I accomplished my 3.5 inch lift, the OEM lower links became shorter in relation to the wheelbase, so I installed adjustable ones and brought the wheelbase from 2 760 mm. back to 2 790 mm. (original specification) In my case, I trimmed the back side of the rear arches with 50 mm.! If the wheelbase would have remained shorter, I wouldn’t have needed that much trimming.

              Off course a proper alignment is a must! Mine is 0-camber and 3-caster, the vehicle handles very well and the steering is great.

              I do not experience rubbing anywhere else in the wheel arches or with any other suspension components.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by AJ120 View Post
                What other changes did you make to fit the 35's? Did you modify the front body mounts? what about rear wheel arch clearance at full flex, does it rub?
                Here you can see how close to arch does the rear tire gets when the suspension is almost compressed. No rubbing!


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                • #9
                  awesome prado. I like your wheels too.

                  my prado isn't old enough for me to cut the guards to fit larger tyres. i'm happy with my 33"s.

                  great pics. hope to see more.
                  SIK-120
                  2008 Toyota Prado 120
                  ...with a few bits and pieces on it...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I love item 10. If in doubt give it a clout, the bigger the doubt the bigger the clout. If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 8608 View Post
                      awesome prado. I like your wheels too.
                      Thanks!!! To be honest, I chose those wheels because I absolutely loved the way they looked on your rig! So yes, I first saw them on your Prado! I also looked at other models but I liked those the most.

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                      • #12
                        Some of my custom switches…
                        Winch fan on/off switch. I manually turn on the fan whenever I cross deep water. I read in an article that air circulation inside the winch motor actually does help to keep water from entering the winch. However, I’m not sure if it’s all true. Although, after a few deep mud holes, I have never had any problems with my front winch.

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                        ABS on/off switch. I switch off that button when I am offroading and it automatically turns off all the systems. I don’t need them, especially A-TRAC, which is responsible for one of the reasons I was breaking the CV joints all the time (imagine you have locked your rear axle but at the same time as you are driving on a low traction surface at a certain speed, the A-TRAC keeps on applying the brakes on the front wheels).

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                        Steinbauer on/off switch. I turn on the power module only on rare occasions! For example, when I am on low range gears and I need all the torque to go through a certain obstacle. Then I am ready to compromise having high EGT’s, just so that I can have a better performance for a few seconds. I never drive on a highway with a Steinbauer module on, not after melting two pistons!

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                        • #13
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                          • #14
                            3rd Photo above, great shot. Looks like you are just fording through the dry ground.

                            Bernie.

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                            • #15
                              Looks like fun.
                              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                              Comment

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