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Originally posted by Fungi2003
Crammy.
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Cheers fungi, I have rejigged my post and hopefully have answered your question. If you're refering to the other switch, thats the main control switch for the IPF 900XS spotties.
Crammy.2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]
[b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
[img]http://www.gifs.net/Animation11/Transportation/Cars/4_wheel_drive.gif[/img] -
Looks good to go mate...
nice roof rack :shock:Featured - issue 140 Australian 4wd Action.
-issue 52 Modified 4wds .
Locked ,Lifted, boosted Brut---"Pradzilla".
[IMG]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/bigfryy/_0481154045-2.jpg[/IMG]Comment
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Top stuff Crammy ... that's really starting to look the goods.
Cheers
ChippyComment
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Great Stuff Crammy, looks great
07 Upgrade GXL D4D, Manual, Dune,Sov Bar, BFG's, SG11, Redark dual Batts, Extensive Aux wiring, Stebel, LED stop tails, IPF HID's (my mod), 240V Inv, ARB Comp, GME UHF,TPMS, Safari snorkel, GPS,Hilux washers, 40l Engel in 30% pas pos,homemade A/C cond protection plate, polyairs.Comment
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Ok a couple of things I thought I'd share... Although I'm happy with the overall install on my winch, there's something that I picked up straight away when I looked under the bonnet... Being a sparky helped, but I guess if you didn't know any better, this could be a recipe for disaster.
For those of you who are unsure what the pic is about, it's a pic is of the 35mm2 negative cable going to the winch connected on the body at the point where the body negative is attached. If you look closely you can see that the body negative is about 10mm2! :shock: So pulling the Prado out of a serious bog could have resulted in the car being burnt to the ground.
No doubt they had a hard time finding somewhere to connect it as the terminal is crowded. This is how I fixed it up, and if you've got the same dilemma as to where you can hook these big ass cables up, this is how you can do it.
Step 1.
Purchase a 35mm2 "line tap" and some self bonding electrical tape from an electircal wholesaler. I used the self bonding tape because you can build it up and make it as thick as you like and it's water tight. You could also use heat shrink here.
Step 2.
Depending on your setup, you need to slice out some insulation on your largest conductor to go to the battery. In my case I ran a 35mm2 cable to the aux battery. If you've run smaller you need to connect your largest cable to the battery first!
Step 3.
Strip second cable the same length as the first, I went around 30mm.
Step 4.
Use the line tap to clamp the 2 cables together, you'll just need a couple of shifters, no need to solder as it's rock solid.
Step 4.
Tape up line tap.
Step 5.
Bolt everything back together. You can see the line tape down beside the battery.
You can use this method on anything really, line taps come in various sizes. I didn't have to worry about the positive as it fitted up ok.
8)
While I was there I also taped the terminals on my redarc as it's sitting right next to the diesel filter.
Hope this helps if you need a spot to connect your gear into.
Cheers,
Crammy2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]
[b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
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jez zus crammy... when are you coming over to work on my :lol: rigFeatured - issue 140 Australian 4wd Action.
-issue 52 Modified 4wds .
Locked ,Lifted, boosted Brut---"Pradzilla".
[IMG]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/bigfryy/_0481154045-2.jpg[/IMG]Comment
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Onya Crammy,
Good info on proper earth bonding
07 Upgrade GXL D4D, Manual, Dune,Sov Bar, BFG's, SG11, Redark dual Batts, Extensive Aux wiring, Stebel, LED stop tails, IPF HID's (my mod), 240V Inv, ARB Comp, GME UHF,TPMS, Safari snorkel, GPS,Hilux washers, 40l Engel in 30% pas pos,homemade A/C cond protection plate, polyairs.Comment
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Yeah mate she's a good girl. Going up the Cape also has it's merits for getting the gear you want! It's easy to justify it!Originally posted by Pradogxlv6
I'm ready when you are!Originally posted by joey
Anything to help fellow Prado Pointers!Originally posted by clifton
8)2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]
[b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
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Hey Crammy, I like your spacer idea, what sort of gap is left between the tyre and the door? I want to run a light pole behind the tyre and mount a reversing/camp light on it.
[url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]Comment
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Hey blackmav, Sorry I missed your post. Not sure on the measurement but Joey has the same spacers with a kamar rear light setup. It fits no probs, just need to adjust the thickness of the spacers as per your mounting bracket.
Crammy.2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]
[b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
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Hey Crammy,
Whats the story with this photo? It looks like you have bundled all the cables from the fuse block together and joined them in the one cable lug, is that correct?
My spare battery is a shambles of cable and inline fuse holders, I have been thinking of installing a fuse block on the firewall to try and clean things up but have been wondering how to get power to each fuse without the current mess of cables.
I'm just wondering how you bundled all the cables toether under the heat shrink without them shorting each other out? I'd like to do something similar but enclose it in split tubing and then run it back to the battery. Does that make sense?Comment
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G'day Rainmain,
The way I did it was to use a 35mm2 lug and as you can see in the photo there's 6 x 6mm2 cables going into it... With a bit of cursing and swearing you'll get them all in no probs, you'll just need to strip the insulation back a little further to be able to get all the strands to the end of the inside of the lug. In regards to them shorting, they're all connected together so I guess they are shorted! This method would have to be about the only neat way to wire up a fuse block of this type.
The next step was to crimp it and then put some heatshrink over to tidy it up. If you can't get access to a crimper that size, soldering maybe your only option here. If you go down this path and end up at the electrical wholesalers to by the lugs, ask them if they lend out crimpers. Some wholesalers do and some don't.
In regards to fusing, make sure you have your fuses as close as possible to the source of supply to fully protect your cable run. In my case the run was so short that it wasn't an issue and my supply cable (35mm2) to the redarc was very well protected so I didn't use a fuse. I deliberately went this route for winching and starting if required. You just need to make sure that your cables have adequate protection.
A neater option is to use the same fuse box that Damonat uses. It has a bus setup which only requires you to run 1 +12v supply and the distribution to each circuit is done internally.
Have a look here ---> 100amp 6 Blade Fuse Block
Hope this helps
Crammy
2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]
[b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
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Thanks Crammy, I presume they are reasonably water proof/resistant? I am looking at placing mine inside the engine bayComment
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The fuse block I had wasn't water proof as such which is why I mounted it up the back corner of the engine bay, but I've washed the engine bay out several times with no worries. If you're sensible with the way you wash in that area you wont have any dramas.Originally posted by Rainman
Cheers mate,
Crammy2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]
[b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
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Ok, I've been playing around with the rig this weekend and managed to install a couple of sets of HID lights. I converted both the driving Hi-Lo beams and my 900XS spotties. And while I was at it I converted the missus's rolla to HID too! 8)
What went in:
Prado
- 1 x H4-3 35W Hi-Lo kit 4300K bulbs (White)
- 1 x H9 55w kit, 4300K bulbs (White)
- 1 x set of hi tension extensions for spotties
Total Cost: Approx $170
Rolla
- 1 x H4-3 35W Hi-Lo kit 4300K bulbs (White)
Total Cost: $88
It ended up being a fairly cheap exercise... Hopefully it won't bite me in the but for going cheap but we'll see how they go.
If you're doing this mod to your spoties, you'll need to get some hi tension extensions if you wish to mount your ballasts under the bonnet rather than on the bar. I asked the seller of my kit if they could do them and the oblidged for $5 for 2 x 1m extensions.. Pretty hard to argue with that. Keep in mind this stuff came from China.
Now the pics are limited because I started off thinking I'd take a heap of photos, but by about photo 5 I was sweating my ass off in the 30 odd degree muggy heat and decided I'd get it over and done with ASAP.
H4-3 kits
I decided to use the existing grommet in the IPF's incase I ever wanted to change back for what ever reason. This meant I had to cut the plugs off both the existing wiring and the new HID globe wires.
Care must be taken when joing the HT side of the ballast. I joined my wires with normal "crimp links" with heat shrink over the top + wrapped the lot in self amalgamating tape. I was originally going to use larger heat shrink and fill it with arildite but I was unorganised and forgot to get the glue.
I would highly recommend doing this as you're trying to contain 23,000 volts. This is not a very easy task and requires a lot more effort to join than your normal 12v. Joing the wire and then arilditing will make a great join that well be very well insulated. If you can slide large enough heat shrink over the join, seal one end with a cable tie and pour in the glue, you'll be on to a winner. Don't fill it to the top with glue so you can shrink down both ends for a neat finish. If you don't go to this effort, you'll have an unreliable set of lights that will short out and not fire. Of course, don't do any joins in the HT side if you don't need to.
Self amalgamating tape
Joins (Sorry, didn't get a shot of the tape)
Converted spottie with H9 55w HID globe
HT extension looms
Ballast mounting positions... I've got 4 ballasts under the bonnet so it was hard trying to get a nice neat look. This may sound rough but I used silicone to mount the ballasts but it's solid as a rock and best of all I didn't need to drill any holes. The brackets I got with the ballasts weren't worth a pinch of poo anyhow.
The next step was to remove the radiator shroud and tie in the cabling between the two lights.
I used the existing wiring from the IPF's and used the plugs off the old globes to connect the new ballasts in to the old loom. This was a big time saver and works just as the old setup did.
So the time came to fire it up and away she went... These things are noisy on start up so don't get a fright when you fire them up for the first time and hear them buzz.
(didn't do a before shot)
Low beam
High beam
As you can see, the 4300k has a nice white light. I didn't want to go the more blue 6000k bulbs but I still think I'll have to change the foggies and parkers to a whiter light.
This was a pretty striaght forward exercise that most of you guys won't have any trouble with as it's pretty much plug and play.
Anyway the big test will be tonight... I can't wait to see how they go. Will keep you posted.
Cheers,
Crammy
2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]
[b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
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