HARD to select 1st, 2nd, 3rd and reverse VERY HARD 1kz 5speed

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

The shudder could be a symptom though of the clutch not releasing properly, and it
doesn't take much drag to cause problems.

Tying to out the transmission in reverse might give you an idea, if the transmission crunches
there is definetly clutch drag, this test is still not definitive though as may still have an issue
with drag at higher rpms.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

There is no crunch going into reverse.
however it sometimes can be hard to select with this problem.
If I let the. Clutch out 1/3 enuff to start engaging the cluster, well then it crunches.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

The output shaft is getting heavily driven in neutral.

When I put it on the hoist in neutral the 4 wheels spin with the engine idling.
That's a lot of drive when it should be NEUTRAL.
They stop when I depress clutch still an inch away from the floor.
Definately disengaging. Plenty clearance.
I'm about to become a Prado 5 speed expert as no-one I can find has done any.....

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Box is out,
Cases removed.
1st gear/synchro is not free. As expected it turns as though 1st is engaged but it's not.
I have not striped the shafts yet but id say synchro mechanism is damaged.
Clutch still looks like new.

[weasal4x4 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close weasal4x4]

I have had the same issue as you've mentioned but without the shudder for about 50,000k. I replaced my original Toyota clutch with an exedy tuff clutch and was all good for about 30,000k until I got back from a 4 week trip to Alice along the Oodnadatta and Old Ghan railway. Your symptoms are exactly the same as what I have previously had to the point where the wife has said she can't drive it because it was so hard to get it into gear at the lights.
I have had the box drained and refilled a few times with a slight improvement but had been told that the problem can't be diagnosed properly without pulling the box and clutch out to inspect. I have found that on the flat with clutch pedal depressed the car still try's to move forward or back when trying to select first or reverse. The problem has mysteriously improved over the last few months.
I will have to watch your progress closely to see what you find. Good luck!

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

I have had the same issue as you've mentioned but without the shudder for about 50,000k. I replaced my original Toyota clutch with an exedy tuff clutch and was all good for about 30,000k until I got back from a 4 week trip to Alice along the Oodnadatta and Old Ghan railway. Your symptoms are exactly the same as what I have previously had to the point where the wife has said she can't drive it because it was so hard to get it into gear at the lights.
I have had the box drained and refilled a few times with a slight improvement but had been told that the problem can't be diagnosed properly without pulling the box and clutch out to inspect. I have found that on the flat with clutch pedal depressed the car still try's
to move forward or back when trying to select first or reverse. The problem has mysteriously improved over the last few months
I will have to watch your progress closely to see what you find. Good luck!

You definately have a clutch not releasing properly issue.

No-one has had what I have.
I have striped the box as explained I had drive in NEUTRAL,
yep nO neutral.
I have found 1st gear has been pressed up against the inner synchro hub and has damaged both components.
Everything else in the box looks ok, synchros are ok.
I'm yet to, and may not find out what has caused the endfloat to allow this.
They are both burned and burred big time!I'm currently in the process of finding another box
As there is no point spending thousands on gears synchris&hubs& bearings if I cannot find the cause as it could chop it out again the same.
This problem came on suddenly, I always felt something was binding due to some shaft in the box shifting.
In only 200-300klms since it started it was cooking!
I will post some pics when I get to the computer.

I'm just lucky to have "special" failures.

[mackayvx Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close mackayvx]

God damn ####... i was hoping it was your clutch man... I hope all goes well replacing the box mate.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

God damn ####... i was hoping it was your clutch man... I hope all goes well replacing the box mate.

Yeah...... I wish it was the clutch.
All part of the fun, fun fun.......

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Haha, probably will put another box in it.
Not worth using a box that does this business.

Forgot all about your springs, I've been so busy drinking......
I will give you a call in the morning.
Maybe give me a reminder incase I get sidetracked (drinking) :-)

Hanging to get the vehicle back on the road and hit some tracks.....

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

I'm assuming the gear box is the normal Toyota setup, a set of cluster gears with a counter shaft to the side, with first on the input shaft.

If this is the case and the problem was first noticed after the clutch was changed I would be closely examining the spigot bearing in the fly wheel. If the wrong bearing has been installed or bearing installed improperly and is preventing the input shaft from seating properly this would push the input shaft backwards into the gear box and cause the problem you have with the end float. Hopefully this is the case and you can go however replaced the clutch for damages to the gear box.

Cheers
LeighW

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

I'm assuming the gear box is the normal Toyota setup, a set of cluster gears with a counter shaft to the side, with first on the input shaft.

If this is the case and the problem was first noticed after the clutch was changed I would be closely examining the spigot bearing in the fly wheel. If the wrong bearing has been installed or bearing installed improperly and is preventing the input shaft from seating properly this would push the input shaft backwards into the gear box and cause the problem you have with the end float. Hopefully this is the case and you can go however replaced the clutch for damages to the gear box.

Cheers
LeighW

Good point. Im not a gearbox specialist, I would have to refer back to it to be sure, im pretty sure 4th is on the input shaft...(one to one) but however, if the internal size of the spigot was wrong it would not go in, or cause pressure.....
which could result in putting some pressure down the shafts......
I will go right now and insert the input to the spigot to check.

As I do believe for this silly shit to happen someone is to blame (maybe me 4x4 driver) however history has shown me whenever I let someone work on my Vehicles (warranty) they stuff stuff up! E.G the transfer case shifter was not fitted correctly and jammed.
The front driveshaft was facing a different way each time they put it back in.

I can honestly tell you dozens 80% of the time how crap these people are, all day long, do i get the idiots or am i just too fussy?
I dont seem to hear others having quiet as much trouble? or do they just not notice or care?

back soon

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

ok, im back! :-)
Spigot and its fitting is good!
After futher investigation i have found that if there was any forward pressure on the input shaft it would destroy the needle roller bearings that are in the input shaft that run on the output shaft where thet join.
It would not take near as much pressure to do that, as what it has had so far, so the input side of things is good.
Just a note: the cluster gears run directly below the main in/out shafts.

next guess? :-) hey if anyone is gearbox savvy feel free to come n have a look n learn....... love to know what caused it and how the endfloat came about........

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Pitty, still was worth a try

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

First the good news, vehicle is mObile!
I received a full refund on my 2nd shuddering clutch.
A free replacement clutch to replace the first one!
Gearboxes from wreckers mainly around $1500-2500 (rip off) Toyota NEW is under $3000
I luckily Remembered a contact I have that got me a box for $500! Yi-haaaa
So this repair gave me a new clutch that doesn't shudder, replacement box, and I keep the change, also I'm on the way to being a clutch/gearbox specialist hahaha........

Car hadn't been started for 4 weeks, so I drained the oil, and refilled with fresh right before I started it, to lube the top, bloody started just Iike usual!
Now it's time to get ready to head out into the bush for a few hours.....
Thankx to those that input try to help!

I have a heaps of r150f gearbox spares now, if you need anything let me know, I also have a Hilux transfer case that came off my replacement box, I will be selling cheap, for $500.00. :-) they don't usually come with the box from wreckers, but my contact just left it on.......

[ejukated Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close ejukated]

what ended up being the final verdict on the gearbox? What actually wore out/failed in there?