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    chardo
    Junior Member

  • chardo
    replied
    Davis Dieso
    Hi Jamie, I have completed my clean up of the inlet manifold/EGR valve etc,etc. All in all it was quite a big job, but I feel after I fit my catch can I should be sitting pretty good for a few years at least. I just got onto the head ports with a tea spoon and then with my fingers and some rag, I got right in to the valve stems. A light squirt of carby cleaner and I was back to bare metal again. It came up very good just a rag and plenty of patience. I cleaned the main crud out of the manifold with straight petrol, worked a treat and cheap as well. My only prob now is where to fit the Catch can as I have a second battery fitted where "The Roo" has fitted his. Not to worry I'll find a little spot for something so important. Has anyone heard how Mark went on his weekend test run??? Nuff said I'm off. Cheers Bill.
    chardo
    Junior Member
    Last edited by chardo; 25-11-2014, 12:27 PM.

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  • smally
    Junior Member

  • smally
    replied
    Finding the time to work out how to do it will be my biggest problem. Need to get my hands on a good wiring diagram first. Might check out the Wholesale Automatic Transmissions kit first.

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  • Davis Dieso
    Junior Member

  • Davis Dieso
    replied
    Will watch that one with interest Smally, very interesting?? I must admit, Mr Toyota didn't do a very good job of how they shift up. I'm forever lifting my right foot to allow it to change up, its a pain!!!
    I think Wholesale Automatic Transmissions do a kit that allows full programming of shift changes and all.
    I have a friend who did their auto trans conversion on his 79 series and he can alter all the shifts, up and down etc etc. Really good.

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  • Davis Dieso
    Junior Member

  • Davis Dieso
    replied
    Haven't heard of that stuff before Bill, but have heard of three bond. You would find "carby cleaner" will do a similar thing. In my case, there was way too much crap in the intake manifold (up to an inch thick) to send it through the motor. However, may be worth a go, say, every year or so to keep it clean. Easier than pulling the manifold off.....
    While I had the manifold off, I took particular care to clean the ports right in around the valves. If you do this by turning the motor over so the valves in turn are closed and using compressed air to blow the crud out should prevent much going through. In saying that, Mine gave a few coughs and splutters on start up, but a good rev fixed that quick smart. No harm done, still purring.
    I'm working on the idea of maybe fitting a VNT turbo???? But thats another thread..
    Good luck with the job.
    Cheers, Jamie

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  • smally
    Junior Member

  • smally
    replied
    Been watching this thread with interest for a while now, not sure I want to do the lockup mod though. Maybe 30 years in the trade has made me cynical! What I'd love to do is get my '05 KZJ upshift a bit earlier. Installing something along the lines of the 'Power / Economy' switch on the BTR 4 speed Falcons was what I was thinking. Getting the trans to shift earlier without reducing line pressure should be possible electronically. Time to start studying the wiring diagrams!

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  • chardo
    Junior Member

  • chardo
    replied
    Davis Dieso
    Hi Jamie, Have just started on my inlet manifold after much googling in the Pradopoint and the Hilux Forum. Lots of great info and photos in the Hilux one. I am cleaning it all out then have a Mann Hummel Provent 200 catch can on the way to help after the clean up.
    Repco sold me a small aerosol of "ThreeBond Super Engine Conditioner for diesel motors". He said he gets his behind kicked if they run out of the stuff its that good. Its made for spraying into the inlet with the motor running. I think too much gunk going through the engine myself, so clean it up first then in time use it. Im waiting to see how Marks Lock up kit works. If it works like yours he will be happy, So will others. Must go and get into this. Take care Cheers Bill.

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  • Davis Dieso
    Junior Member

  • Davis Dieso
    replied
    Good idea Bill,
    I think they all need cleaning out, at least once in there life. My 1KZ was all gunked up in the intake manifold. Blocked of the EGR and fitted a catch can. The D4D's have the problem even worse apparently, but can't block off the EGR as it brings up a code.

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  • MUMSRIG
    Avid PP Poster!

  • MUMSRIG
    replied
    I should hopefully be joining the Lock Up club next week as I have lined up my Auto Sparky mate to give me a hand

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  • chardo
    Junior Member

  • chardo
    replied
    MRW82
    Hi Mark, Hi all, All sounding good, Hope all goes well, Im sure it will as you have put the time and research into it. Have a good one mate. Cheers Bill. PS I have just put all new injector seals and a new injector in my beast this week, Quite a task. I'm looking into cleaning out the EGR and inlet manifold as well soon. catch ya.

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  • MRW82
    replied
    Yep

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  • Mozz
    replied
    Originally posted by MRW82 View Post
    Given that the regulator was generating plenty of heat, which was the main reason for avoiding the resistor. We ended up listening to your suggestions ( mozz and Leigh) and put a 21w load resistor in instead. Mounted to a metal bracket up under the dash where its heat won't affect anything. Now I'm getting a steady 5 volts and full torque converter lockup. With no concerns of reliability of the setup.


    The big test is this evening when I hook up the loaded trailer and head away for the long weekend. Hopefully all this effort will make a worthwhile difference to the behaviour of the auto when pulling a load.
    Thats good mate hope it all works for you. I am just getting the bits together to do my own. Are you still using the same 6 ohm resistor to trick the TCM into thinking the solinoid is connected while manual lock up is on.

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  • MRW82
    replied
    Given that the regulator was generating plenty of heat, which was the main reason for avoiding the resistor. We ended up listening to your suggestions ( mozz and Leigh) and put a 21w load resistor in instead. Mounted to a metal bracket up under the dash where its heat won't affect anything. Now I'm getting a steady 5 volts and full torque converter lockup. With no concerns of reliability of the setup.


    The big test is this evening when I hook up the loaded trailer and head away for the long weekend. Hopefully all this effort will make a worthwhile difference to the behaviour of the auto when pulling a load.

    Leave a comment:

  • Davis Dieso
    Junior Member

  • Davis Dieso
    replied
    Originally posted by Hatobuilico View Post
    Hi Jamie, can't open it through Rapid share, maybe you send me a product link please.
    Sorry guys, rapid share went nuts.

    Try this, https://www.dropbox.com/s/x7karsquuv...p%20.docx?dl=0

    This should work.

    Very interesting discussions going on.

    Jamie

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  • LeighW
    Avid PP Poster!

  • LeighW
    replied
    You could use a normal 3 leg voltage regulator combined with a power
    transistor, this would be the cheapest way to handle the required current.

    The other option is to make a simple constant current source using a cheap
    power transistor.

    Keep in mind Watts = E x I so using either a Voltage regulator, constant current
    source or resistor will all result in the same thermal load give same current through
    solenoid. An aluminum housed high power panel resistor is probably the easiest
    option and that's why the others have used it.

    If you want to keep the heat down then your going to need a switched mode
    power supply, ie most likely what the transmission ECU is doing (PWM)

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  • Mozz
    replied
    You can get the metal base type resistors with a heat sink that would be ideal I think. My idea with the speed and brake cut out was then to have an over ride switch to bypass the cut outs when towing. I think if you are going to make them to sell most people don't tow all the time and having the auto cancel function would be much easier and safer to use for everyday driving.

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