Bill, I saw that page in the book, but I can't physically find the plugs in the car... Yet.
I'll try and simplify my understanding of how it works:
P/N lockout relay is activated when the shifter is in either P or N, which will stop the main power feed going any further than that relay. The diodes stop power back feeding and illuminating the opposing shifter light.
When the P/N lockout relay is NOT active then the main power feed will flow (when dash switch is on) to the activation relay. Pulling the relay in earths the TC lock solenoid which turns the solenoid on.
When there is no power feed to the activation relay then the factory TCM circuit is complete and the TC lock will act as per normal.
With power on the LO light relay is activated which earths the dash light for the LO indicator of the SCM.
I deleted the brake pedal cutout because I want to be able to use full engine braking on downhill runs when towing, which means I need TC locked when braking. So I opted for an on/off switch rather then a momentary switch with hold in relay. It also simplifies the system quite a bit.
I tow a Suzuki Sierra on a trailer a few times a year (usually over hilly terrain) so this is the main purpose of the TC lock for me. I find the 1kd runs out of breath as the revs rise, which if the TC slips (or if I kick back to 4th to stop TC slip) the revs are out of the peak torque range. If I can keep the revs low it's got the torque to keep pulling like a teenager....
I'll try and simplify my understanding of how it works:
P/N lockout relay is activated when the shifter is in either P or N, which will stop the main power feed going any further than that relay. The diodes stop power back feeding and illuminating the opposing shifter light.
When the P/N lockout relay is NOT active then the main power feed will flow (when dash switch is on) to the activation relay. Pulling the relay in earths the TC lock solenoid which turns the solenoid on.
When there is no power feed to the activation relay then the factory TCM circuit is complete and the TC lock will act as per normal.
With power on the LO light relay is activated which earths the dash light for the LO indicator of the SCM.
I deleted the brake pedal cutout because I want to be able to use full engine braking on downhill runs when towing, which means I need TC locked when braking. So I opted for an on/off switch rather then a momentary switch with hold in relay. It also simplifies the system quite a bit.
I tow a Suzuki Sierra on a trailer a few times a year (usually over hilly terrain) so this is the main purpose of the TC lock for me. I find the 1kd runs out of breath as the revs rise, which if the TC slips (or if I kick back to 4th to stop TC slip) the revs are out of the peak torque range. If I can keep the revs low it's got the torque to keep pulling like a teenager....
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