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  • Cracked Engine Block - reweld??

    I have a 2003 V6 4L petrol Prado and recently durin a 4wd trip, i was travelling over some rocks and one seems to have pierced my bash plate and put a small (5mm) crack in my engine block. It missed my sump by about 2 inches. I have spoken to some mechanics and they are leaning towards putting a new block in. Obviousley i dont want to spend 10k + on a new block (current block only has 100k on the clock) and was wondering if anybody had heard of a small crack being welded or sealed somehow??

    It is leaking oil at about 1 drop every 5 seconds.

  • #2
    Its hard to say without with out seeing it but I would be more inclined to drill the crack out, tap a thread and screw a tapered plug in with a suitable sealer. That method will depend on whether there is anything behind the area in question and the thickness and a maybe a few other things.

    I have a repair like that in my transfer case, been perfectly sealed for nearly 5 years and 85k or so.

    Cheers Andrew
    [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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    • #3
      Excuse my ignorance but are they an alloy or cast iron block?.........Either can be welded depending ofcourse on the location and extent of the crack.

      I have welded up a couple of motorbike crank cases that have had similar rock damage and as far as I know they are all still working fine.

      Dan
      Can I still play now I have a 200 series?........Had a 2008 120 Series D4D Manual 6 Speed...STANDARD White, Soverign Bar..........Rear Cage........Dashmat.......GX Wheels with Good Year Dura Tracs........Bilstein/Dobbo 2'' lift.....Safari Snorkel....Canvas Seat Covers.....20%tint..........55W HID Headlights.....Mudmats front and rear.....
      22'' Lightbar......

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      • #4
        Ill try and get some photos of the damage.
        It is approx 50mm in front of sump basin and about 5mm long. It is an alloy block.
        I do not know what is on the other side of the crack. Hopefully just empty space for the oil.
        I am a bit worried about welding it as it may distort the block and create more damage.
        The drill and tap idea might work, i will just have to see what is on the other side of the crack.

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        • #5
          Is it leaking any fluid at all.
          96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

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          • #6
            Aluminum welding is relatively easy if you have the right gear, and someone who can use it. Agree to above find the end of the crack, drill and tap a thread and fit a grub screw. This will relieve the stress of the crack and stop it going further.
            Can you post a pic of the damage?
            08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
            06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
            Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

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            • #7
              Give us some photos, it's a bit hard to suggest a fix without seeing the damage or the area of the block your talking about.

              Welding cast aluminium isn't impossible but you'd need to strip and clean the area thoroughly as any oil in the crack will make it very difficult to seal. As you said you need to be mindful of distortion in the material with a weld repair.

              Metal stitching is another option.
              Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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              • #8
                Engine Oil - Approx 1 drop every few seconds

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                • #9
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                  • #10
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                    • #11
                      i haven't seen one of those engines out , but don't they have a 2 piece sump steel lower, alloy upper

                      ( that way they can fit the same engine into different cars just changing the lower sump units)

                      that looks like it is in a sump section as there are too many radiuses to be at the bottom of the block

                      look a bit higher up to see if the is a horisontal joint above that, if so you can weld it or replace it
                      Razorback81
                      Advanced Member
                      Last edited by Razorback81; 18-02-2015, 07:49 AM.
                      2008 Dune D4D manual GXL update - with lots of fruit !! + Roma Razorback Off Road Van

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                      • #12
                        I'd drain oil, clean it up and try some JB Weld or similar on it to start with. It's not a high pressure point so shouldn't leak.

                        Have JB Welded my transfer after some experienced Toyota mechanic decided to tighten the filler plug too much and cracked the case. About a 2cm crack that has been JB Welded now for about 2years and doesn't leak a drop. Worth a try to start with nothing to loose and real cheap fix.

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                        • #13
                          Can you drop the sump off without removing anything else? Have a look on the inside and see if you can patch it of drill it out.
                          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                          • #14
                            Hi Ryan,
                            Wife had a leak on camshaft rubber seal where the rocker box goes on the head (vectra) was about to replace the gasget but she needed to use the car ,I gave it a quick wipe , (and it had been leaking for some time) rubber was soft anyway got some kneed it, the two pack putty stuff for radiators and the like , put it over the gasget that I could see and the ali head not really thinking it would hold and she went off, it's been on over 12 months now and not a leak, bit of a story but I would give kneed it a go,good luck. (Good clean with Metho and a bit of a rough up )
                            Alan.

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                            • #15
                              Try to get an aluminium epoxy compound like Devcon. It's made to perform the type of repair you're trying to do. I've used their steel putty before for bedding and thread repair. The stuff works well but is a bit expensive.
                              2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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