https://www.australiandirect.com.au/...kaAl_qEALw_wcB
I’m using a Kickass VSR (voltage sensitive relay). Very affordable and it does the job. This type of VSR is very popular and has many different companies selling it under different brands and product names. Depending on who’s selling it you’ll find it from $90 to $30. Has a switch on it to link both batteries together if you run cranking battery flat & need to start the car off power temporarily provided by the deep cycle. When you hook solar panels up to the deep cycle and the deep cycle reaches full voltage, the charge then gets automatically diverted to the cranking battery (handy if you have the stereo playing all day while camping). These things last forever and are just modernised versions of what normal battery isolators were for years and years anyway. Does what more expensive units do for less outlay.
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Last edited by Brett1979; 28-11-2019, 12:32 PM.
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The Redarc ones just work. Reliable and fairly cheap. I ran 25mm2 flexible cable to rear 150A anderson plug the supplied the rear outlets by tapping off that. Ran cables in flexible conduit from engine bay and along the chassis. I think 25mm2 works out at 3B&S.
.Ive since removed the cole hershey switch. It was useful but gave me some problems on one trip.
Photos on my previous post show the install.
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Thanks for the replies I had a bit more time today to have a proper look think I should work it out.
So... What isolators are people running?
Those matsons ones look fairly solid.
Apologies if this has been covered 100 times before..
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https://offroaddownunder.com.au/prod...series-petrol/
No pics of my engine bay at the moment. But I bought my battery tray from Off-road Downunder In Vic. I have 4B&S cable running around the back perimeter of the engine bay linking both batteries and 6B&S going to a few outlets in the boot. Getting 4B&S to the boot via the cabin and properly concealing it all the way would’ve been a difficult task.
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https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...wiring-install
Not a bought one. I made it but idea should be same.
One thing to be carefull of is drilling in top of radiator support. Usually instructions make mention of drilling where its stamped "4" on top of support. Metal is very thin and drill bit will grab and pull bit down through the headlight. Ask me know. put a piece of sheet metal under support when drilling through.
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Has anyone got any pics of their dual battery tray install? Bought a Tuff Tray off eBay for cheap ( very decent quality and Aussie made) but the instructions are lacking photos. Most kits look the same anyway. Cheers.
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Been toying with idea of storage in rear under hood lining. Was going to make something solid but found a Subaru cargo restrainer and went with that.
Made two brackets to replace the rear passenger hand holds.
Welded up fitting for the restrainers ends to fit into and just shortened the poles to suit.
20191023_172645-1008x7563.jpg
Last edited by sparksy; 23-10-2019, 07:52 PM.
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Was this tricky to do? Ive been searching online for some step by steps with no luck...Originally posted by LowRange View PostSlow day in the shed. Fitted a dual 2amp USB in one of the switch blanks, and an rj45 in another for the UHF microphone. Also mounted the main body of the radio properly under the front seat, radio is an Icom IC-2800h 2m/70cm.
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mind if I ask what sort of $$ you paid?Originally posted by Mattery View PostFinally bought a 120! Well on Sunday to be exact.
Got lucky and found a mint GXL with leather and 151k kms at a steal price.
haven't done much other than take the back seats out and trying to wax out the lightly oxidized paint.
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Yesterday I installed a 2 inch suspension lift in the front only of my 05 Grande. Already have the rear raised through the relocating of the airbag sensor in the rear.
Have seen the previous clearance go from 140mm in the front to over 200mm in the front from a 2 inch lift. This can be explained due to the drooping of the previous springs and shocks which had been on the car for 14 years and done 200k.
Preassembled front struts made it a DIY job in which took me the better half of 6 hours to complete due to lack of experience and a few minor hiccups.
Overall, well worth installing the lift myself. Great feeling of accomplishment.
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Fixed the bent sides and rollers on my 4wdsupercentre drawers.
The mushroom head bolts that support the bearings that the drawer runs on are bending the steel sides. The sides are pretty thin galv sheet and not very strong. it also isn't stiff enough to keep the outer frame square so the drawer doesn't run square.
Well still waiting for email reply from 4wd supercentre Re warranty on single drawer. Tried ringing but that was futile.
So decided to fix them rather than wait.
The sides of the drawers is thin sheet and the weight of drawers made the bearing support bolts bend the sides in so drawer would jam.
also even though they fitted 2 bearings only 1 just made contact.
made up some fish plates to fit on outside of the frame and then replaced the bearing bolts with longer ones and added washers to move bearings in so both would take weight.
also fitted a polyurethane block on inside of frame to run along the drawer length, this stops the frame going out of square.
Last pic shows the fold up work bench over top of drawer.Made from Dotmar Poly "ply"
5 Photos
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I just posted this too https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...uel-starvationOriginally posted by Pradopolous View PostI recently suffered the dreaded 1/4 of a tank of diesel left and a car that wont go no more (120 D4D)
Quick background...main tank empty...sub tank half full of diesel and car stops
In short u can either replace the in tank fuel pump/ jet pump for around the 300/400 mark and hope this solves yr issue......to solve it 100%, u should replace the whole fuel assembly inside the main tank circa 1400-1500............but we didnt, another spastic design fault by the knobs at toyota= fail.
Reinstalled another jet pump, run an additional breather fuel pipe into sub tank and T piece connection into main tank breather line........installed an external fuel pump which draws fuel from sub to main tank if it shits itself again, with in cabin switch plus relay....essentially went back to old school manual setup
What a &*nt of a job2 PhotosLast edited by adrian5800; 01-08-2019, 03:44 PM.
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I recently suffered the dreaded 1/4 of a tank of diesel left and a car that wont go no more (120 D4D)
Quick background...main tank empty...sub tank half full of diesel and car stops
In short u can either replace the in tank fuel pump/ jet pump for around the 300/400 mark and hope this solves yr issue......to solve it 100%, u should replace the whole fuel assembly inside the main tank circa 1400-1500............but we didnt, another spastic design fault by the knobs at toyota= fail.
Reinstalled another jet pump, run an additional breather fuel pipe into sub tank and T piece connection into main tank breather line........installed an external fuel pump which draws fuel from sub to main tank if it shits itself again, with in cabin switch plus relay....essentially went back to old school manual setup
What a &*nt of a job
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