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The 150 series Dual Battery Guide
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Why just take another feed off the VSR to the aux in the car and try the trailer without the DCDC chargerand see how you get on, as long as you run decent sized cable you should be able to charge the trailer batteries ok without the charger?
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Hi all. About to jump into a dual battery setup. Intention is to mount an Optima yellow top with VSR. (I have voltage booster). I currently have an anderson plug on the towbar which is fed from the start battery via a relay (only powered with ignition on).
I have a Camper Trailer with 200aH of batteries and I intend to add a Projecta IDC25 charger (in the CT).
Should I connect the towbar anderson plug to the Starter or Aux batteries? I'm thinking just leave it on the starter battery, problem is the anderson plug in the boot is also hooked in to it. Obviously I'd like the anderson in the boot on the aux battery to keep the beers cold. What is the downside to having the towbar anderson plug connected to the Aux battery?
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Not even close...unless in includes a big lithium battery and top of the range smart charger...but who needs that anyway !
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Impossible to comment without any details whatsoever. You will need to detail what you are getting for anyone to comment.Originally posted by Bossy View PostCan you tell me if a quote of $2500 is reasonable for dual battery setup including 2 anderson plugs in my Prado 150?
IF it includes an auxiliary deep cycle battery, a reasonable battery tray, some good quality 6AWG B&S cable from the main battery, and good quality 8AWG B&S cable to the anderson plugs, a couple of circuit breakers (or fuses), and maybe a DC/DC charger and or VSR, then it all starts to add up....and with someone doing the work...its probably best part of at least half a day or more labour....then you are likely to be getting close to $2,500 more than likely....but jeepers, (and not being rude) ,,,but how can anyone really comment without any details of your set up please "bossy"?
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Expensive setup
Can you tell me if a quote of $2500 is reasonable for dual battery setup including 2 anderson plugs in my Prado 150?
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Hi Grumps189,
I'd read the same about moving the air con pipe. I put the tray in first before sizing up a battery. When I tried putting the 85Ah battery that I ended up going with in there, the air con pipe was only just clearing it. I didn't feel great about the small gap nor moving it myself given some of the horror stories I'd read about the pipe breaking. Having said that I'm sure it would have been fine. But I went with the safer option and paid someone else (auto-elec mob in Darwin) to move it completely and fit a new bracket. It was only about $60 total for some peace of mind.
Nice work getting the DT90. Super simple to set up. I like your idea of putting it on the driver's side. I'm going to see how the top of the fuse box concept goes over the next while and may end up moving it and extending some cables.
Would be keen to hear how your set up goes!
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Hi Marky, what's the go with the ARB tray and having to get someone else move the aircon pipe? I was sure I read elsewhere that the ARB tray is a straight fit and the aircon pipe just moves gently out of the way and re-attaches?
I'm about to do the same thing - and haven't yet chosen which tray to use. I too have the Traxide DT90 and am thinking of mounting it on the driver's side near the brake booster - stacks of room and solid - just need to run a substantial cable from the cranking battery. Don't like the idea of having something attached to the top of the fuse box - doesn't seem too secure to me.
Paul
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If you put a 25A charger in you'll lengthen you recharge times considerable when charging the
Optima's for a low SOC.
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It's hard for anyone making up these units to guess how much cable each application will need. Cables are easily joined or as you have done relocate the unit a little. Sounds like it will work well.
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Photos this time
https://s27.postimg.org/xu7gqg7gj/IMG_4483.jpg
DT90 attached to top of fuse box. My one criticism of the Traxide unit is that the wire from the unit to the cranking battery is a bit short. If it was maybe 10cm longer I would have put the unit elsewhere. Although I could have lengthened that cable but didn't want to mess around too much.
https://s27.postimg.org/rhsbgm4eb/IMG_4484.jpg
https://s27.postimg.org/hyimn5gw3/IMG_4485.jpg
Dual battery/tray and relocated AC pipe bracket.
https://s27.postimg.org/qjbyebr2b/IMG_4491.jpg
Cig plugs in the back. The fuse block is located just under the cup holder, towards the rear seats.
mullerwh - I just got 14.2v at the cranking battery on a cold start at idle with the booster diode. However, all the testing I did before running the second battery fit within the parameters set by LeighW on his instructions. The cig plugs at the rear are reading 12.8v about 5mins after the engine is turned off.
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Thanks for the help guys. I have a Redarc BCDC1225 sitting in the garage and have been tossing up whether to install it or not but the current isolator setup has been working well the last two years. I'm running a yellow(2nd) and red(main) top optima battery.
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Hi mullerwh, any variable or constant voltage up to 14.7v is fine for charging any type of lead acid battery.
NOTE, a continuos voltage of 14.7 from a battery charger is to high, because it can be on for day or weeks at a time and this is why Battery chargers, solar regulator and decent DC/DC devices have a float mode, where the voltage is lowered once the battery is fully charged.
This is not necessary when charging from an alternator because no one drives long enough for the higher voltage to cause any problems. And a number of new vehicles actually run at 14.7v when ever possible.
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