Huge power loss after 10 minutes, 1998 Diesel I need help!

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

I just seen and replied to your PM's Cheese. More than happy to help where I can.

Do 90's even have a OBD1/2/M-OBD port or are they diagnostic link only?

[Big_cheese69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Big_cheese69]

Do 90's even have a OBD1/2/M-OBD port or are they diagnostic link only?

It has a black diagnostic port under the bonnet. no OBM ports under dash had a good look

[Big_cheese69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Big_cheese69]

Yeah it's a bit of a pig to remove but it's worth checking, I had an injection pump returned to a diesel specialist twice for lack of power after a rebuild only to be sent to another specialist who diagnosed it correctly (blocked strainer).

If nothing shows up with the air leak test, next step try and locate someone with a similar model and play swaptronics with the ecu, I have read of some cases of failure there. If the fault is still present then it looks like a pump rebuild. IMO

You can do resistance checks on the timing control unit and spill valve but you need the factory service manual info, I don't have one for the 90's unless someone else on here can help you. The 120's are fly by wire and yours is a different pump.

Edit- try bunnings, they stock clear pvc hose

Got some hose but wont get around to hooking it up till Friday. But yea if I see no bubbles I'll start with a scan first and don't like my chances of an Import ECU being too popular, anyone know if domestic ECU's can be used in place of a Imported one?
Cheers

[Big_cheese69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Big_cheese69]

Ok tried the clear hose didn't notice any bubbles when motor was idling or free reving but tied my phone into the engine bay and videoed the clear hose and about 10 large bubbles made its way down the hose.
I had driven the car for 10 minutes previously and it was playing up, I pulled over and left motor running pushed record on phone and accelerated up to about 80km/h before the phone stopped recording as it got too hot! The bubbles appeared about 3 seconds after I started accelerating.
I'm going to try this again in the morning and only install phone once car is playing up so hopefully it records for longer.

Can I get some suggestions on how much or if any air should be in the hose?
Thanks

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

There shouldn't be any air in the line.
I have seen the filter head/primer leak air in under suction. They're about $60 from amayama.
Install clear tube before the filter and compare.
Also check your fuel lines condition. the internal part of the hose can break up and create a flap which can block the hose intermittently.

[Big_cheese69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Big_cheese69]

I've bought 5 meters of fuel hose and run the hose from the fuel tank to a boat primer bulb then clear hose from primer bulb to pump and videoed it today. I made sure I removed all air from both lines when connecting at the bulb. In 10 minutes of driving 1 bubble came through the line. Right on time it played up and loss power not sure if one small bubble can cause the issues I'm having. The first time I recorded it with just a clear hose there was about 10 big bubbles in a row this time only one and it has exact same symptoms, even when the loss of power is happening no air is going through the line.
I'll let the car sit over night and try again in morning with new hose and filter bypassed and see what happens. My thoughts were the air was building up in the pump and when it gets a certain amount of air built up it starts playing up that's why it took 10 minutes to start playing up but not so sure now.
Exact same symptoms with hardly any air going through.
Starting to think sensor fault so ordering a 22pin to 16 pin adapter cable and see what the sensors are saying.

[Big_cheese69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Big_cheese69]

Also... tried checking fault codes and when I bridge the terminals on diagnostic port my "OD OFF" (overdrive off) light flashes instead of my "check engine" light. It flashes every half second indicating no fault.
When I turn the ignition to on there is no "check engine light" illuminated. Owners manual says there should be one, strange the OD OFF does same thing.
I've started s thread hoping another 90 series Japan import owner can check theirs.

[Shayne Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Shayne]

Does this sound familiar ?

"Right guys took her out for a long not good soon as I get to around 2000 rpm she starts dropping revs and surging if I try to accelerate through it get worse then a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust
Takes for ever to get to 40mph cause I have to accelerate ever so softly
The engine management light came on for a few seconds while accelerating up a small hill"

In his case it turned out to be a blocked in-line filter , i don't think you will get a code for running out of fuel the light might flash as timing goes pear shaped but why record it when the ecu would expect the user to know he is running out of fuel .

There are a bunch of filters in the pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjDKJvVXUAc

[Big_cheese69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Big_cheese69]

Does this sound familiar ?

"Right guys took her out for a long not good soon as I get to around 2000 rpm she starts dropping revs and surging if I try to accelerate through it get worse then a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust
Takes for ever to get to 40mph cause I have to accelerate ever so softly
The engine management light came on for a few seconds while accelerating up a small hill"

In his case it turned out to be a blocked in-line filter , i don't think you will get a code for running out of fuel the light might flash as timing goes pear shaped but why record it when the ecu would expect the user to know he is running out of fuel .

There are a bunch of filters in the pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjDKJvVXUAc

Thanks Shayne, good video he missed a couple of other filters but good to see it. Yes the symptoms are different to mine, I don't loose revs, surge or have smoke. Thanks mate

[Big_cheese69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Big_cheese69]

Removed the dash cluster yesterday and found the bulb had fallen out of the CEL, put a bulb in and there was a fault code stored in ecu.
Fault 14- fuel pump timing control signal

Took the car for a drive and all was perfectly fine for 10 minutes then it started playing up as usual, but CEL comes on when the car starts to lose power, if your driving down a hill or flat road with no load on engine the CEL stays off but when you go up a hill or accelerate hard the light stays on until your not loading engine.

Put the ecu into "test" mode and it gave me an extra 2 fault codes along with 14.
Fault 42- vehicle speed sensor
Fault 43- starter signal.
Checked voltage on speed sensor input at ecu and all ok. Signal comes from speed sensor goes thru speedo then thru to ecu.
Doubt anything wrong with starter signal as car starts fine.

My concern now is everything is perfect for initial 10 minutes then it starts playing up, maybe when timing control valve heats up?

Anyone have any suggestions for me?

I wish I checked CEL earlier but I thought the flashing OD OFF light was in place of the CEL, turns out the OD OFF is for the transmission.

Thanks

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Pm sent

[Shayne Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Shayne]

Just a thought , do you know you can turn up the fuel on these pumps ?

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Removed the dash cluster yesterday and found the bulb had fallen out of the CEL, put a bulb in and there was a fault code stored in ecu.
Fault 14- fuel pump timing control signal

Took the car for a drive and all was perfectly fine for 10 minutes then it started playing up as usual, but CEL comes on when the car starts to lose power, if your driving down a hill or flat road with no load on engine the CEL stays off but when you go up a hill or accelerate hard the light stays on until your not loading engine.

Put the ecu into "test" mode and it gave me an extra 2 fault codes along with 14.
Fault 42- vehicle speed sensor
Fault 43- starter signal.
Checked voltage on speed sensor input at ecu and all ok. Signal comes from speed sensor goes thru speedo then thru to ecu.
Doubt anything wrong with starter signal as car starts fine.

My concern now is everything is perfect for initial 10 minutes then it starts playing up, maybe when timing control valve heats up?

Anyone have any suggestions for me?

I wish I checked CEL earlier but I thought the flashing OD OFF light was in place of the CEL, turns out the OD OFF is for the transmission.

Thanks

Now we are getting somewhere. Have a read of this:
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...951#post531951

There was more on this on "the other site whose name shall not be uttered", unfortunately now site is disabled.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Just a thought , do you know you can turn up the fuel on these pumps ?

Do you mean the resistor mod?

[Shayne Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Shayne]

I had to google the resistor mod t303 and i think not . Pull the cap off the top of the spill control valve and you will see a lock nut around a small nut , undo the lock and turn the small nut clockwise to up the fuel .

Be warned turn it up too much any you will end up with a runaway engine (there's plenty of examples of runaway diesel engines on youtube) blocking off the air supply is the only way to stop a runaway .

While tuning my 1kz-te i would turn the nut from 8oclock to 9oclock which is just 2 or 3 mm on a nut so small , then go for a test run to see how it feels .It's a 2 minute job but it can make a world of difference .