Originally posted by HugoStiglitz
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Huge power loss after 10 minutes, 1998 Diesel I need help!
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Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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Originally posted by adrian5800 View PostYeah it's a bit of a pig to remove but it's worth checking, I had an injection pump returned to a diesel specialist twice for lack of power after a rebuild only to be sent to another specialist who diagnosed it correctly (blocked strainer).
If nothing shows up with the air leak test, next step try and locate someone with a similar model and play swaptronics with the ecu, I have read of some cases of failure there. If the fault is still present then it looks like a pump rebuild. IMO
You can do resistance checks on the timing control unit and spill valve but you need the factory service manual info, I don't have one for the 90's unless someone else on here can help you. The 120's are fly by wire and yours is a different pump.
Edit- try bunnings, they stock clear pvc hose
Cheers
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Ok tried the clear hose didn't notice any bubbles when motor was idling or free reving but tied my phone into the engine bay and videoed the clear hose and about 10 large bubbles made its way down the hose.
I had driven the car for 10 minutes previously and it was playing up, I pulled over and left motor running pushed record on phone and accelerated up to about 80km/h before the phone stopped recording as it got too hot! The bubbles appeared about 3 seconds after I started accelerating.
I'm going to try this again in the morning and only install phone once car is playing up so hopefully it records for longer.
Can I get some suggestions on how much or if any air should be in the hose?
Thanks
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There shouldn't be any air in the line.
I have seen the filter head/primer leak air in under suction. They're about $60 from amayama.
Install clear tube before the filter and compare.
Also check your fuel lines condition. the internal part of the hose can break up and create a flap which can block the hose intermittently.Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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I've bought 5 meters of fuel hose and run the hose from the fuel tank to a boat primer bulb then clear hose from primer bulb to pump and videoed it today. I made sure I removed all air from both lines when connecting at the bulb. In 10 minutes of driving 1 bubble came through the line. Right on time it played up and loss power not sure if one small bubble can cause the issues I'm having. The first time I recorded it with just a clear hose there was about 10 big bubbles in a row this time only one and it has exact same symptoms, even when the loss of power is happening no air is going through the line.
I'll let the car sit over night and try again in morning with new hose and filter bypassed and see what happens. My thoughts were the air was building up in the pump and when it gets a certain amount of air built up it starts playing up that's why it took 10 minutes to start playing up but not so sure now.
Exact same symptoms with hardly any air going through.
Starting to think sensor fault so ordering a 22pin to 16 pin adapter cable and see what the sensors are saying.
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Also... tried checking fault codes and when I bridge the terminals on diagnostic port my "OD OFF" (overdrive off) light flashes instead of my "check engine" light. It flashes every half second indicating no fault.
When I turn the ignition to on there is no "check engine light" illuminated. Owners manual says there should be one, strange the OD OFF does same thing.
I've started s thread hoping another 90 series Japan import owner can check theirs.
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Does this sound familiar ?
"Right guys took her out for a long not good soon as I get to around 2000 rpm she starts dropping revs and surging if I try to accelerate through it get worse then a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust
Takes for ever to get to 40mph cause I have to accelerate ever so softly
The engine management light came on for a few seconds while accelerating up a small hill"
In his case it turned out to be a blocked in-line filter , i don't think you will get a code for running out of fuel the light might flash as timing goes pear shaped but why record it when the ecu would expect the user to know he is running out of fuel .
There are a bunch of filters in the pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjDKJvVXUAc
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Originally posted by Shayne View PostDoes this sound familiar ?
"Right guys took her out for a long not good soon as I get to around 2000 rpm she starts dropping revs and surging if I try to accelerate through it get worse then a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust
Takes for ever to get to 40mph cause I have to accelerate ever so softly
The engine management light came on for a few seconds while accelerating up a small hill"
In his case it turned out to be a blocked in-line filter , i don't think you will get a code for running out of fuel the light might flash as timing goes pear shaped but why record it when the ecu would expect the user to know he is running out of fuel .
There are a bunch of filters in the pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjDKJvVXUAc
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Removed the dash cluster yesterday and found the bulb had fallen out of the CEL, put a bulb in and there was a fault code stored in ecu.
Fault 14- fuel pump timing control signal
Took the car for a drive and all was perfectly fine for 10 minutes then it started playing up as usual, but CEL comes on when the car starts to lose power, if your driving down a hill or flat road with no load on engine the CEL stays off but when you go up a hill or accelerate hard the light stays on until your not loading engine.
Put the ecu into "test" mode and it gave me an extra 2 fault codes along with 14.
Fault 42- vehicle speed sensor
Fault 43- starter signal.
Checked voltage on speed sensor input at ecu and all ok. Signal comes from speed sensor goes thru speedo then thru to ecu.
Doubt anything wrong with starter signal as car starts fine.
My concern now is everything is perfect for initial 10 minutes then it starts playing up, maybe when timing control valve heats up?
Anyone have any suggestions for me?
I wish I checked CEL earlier but I thought the flashing OD OFF light was in place of the CEL, turns out the OD OFF is for the transmission.
Thanks
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Pm sentSilver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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Originally posted by Big_cheese69 View PostRemoved the dash cluster yesterday and found the bulb had fallen out of the CEL, put a bulb in and there was a fault code stored in ecu.
Fault 14- fuel pump timing control signal
Took the car for a drive and all was perfectly fine for 10 minutes then it started playing up as usual, but CEL comes on when the car starts to lose power, if your driving down a hill or flat road with no load on engine the CEL stays off but when you go up a hill or accelerate hard the light stays on until your not loading engine.
Put the ecu into "test" mode and it gave me an extra 2 fault codes along with 14.
Fault 42- vehicle speed sensor
Fault 43- starter signal.
Checked voltage on speed sensor input at ecu and all ok. Signal comes from speed sensor goes thru speedo then thru to ecu.
Doubt anything wrong with starter signal as car starts fine.
My concern now is everything is perfect for initial 10 minutes then it starts playing up, maybe when timing control valve heats up?
Anyone have any suggestions for me?
I wish I checked CEL earlier but I thought the flashing OD OFF light was in place of the CEL, turns out the OD OFF is for the transmission.
Thanks
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...951#post531951
There was more on this on "the other site whose name shall not be uttered", unfortunately now site is disabled.
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I had to google the resistor mod t303 and i think not . Pull the cap off the top of the spill control valve and you will see a lock nut around a small nut , undo the lock and turn the small nut clockwise to up the fuel .
Be warned turn it up too much any you will end up with a runaway engine (there's plenty of examples of runaway diesel engines on youtube) blocking off the air supply is the only way to stop a runaway .
While tuning my 1kz-te i would turn the nut from 8oclock to 9oclock which is just 2 or 3 mm on a nut so small , then go for a test run to see how it feels .It's a 2 minute job but it can make a world of difference .
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