Torque Convertor lock up instal

[chardo]

MRW82
Mark , I just found this bit from Wholesale Automatics on the resistor in a Pajero club forum.

The Lock-up was first developed by us about 15 years ago and was a 12 volt input and used mainly on 80 series Toyotas and GQ patrols.
Later on we added the resistor for later models with more sophisticated electronics as suggested.
In the last 2 years we now have developed a control module that recognises the transmission type by the solenoid resistance and mimics the exact PWM signal that is operated by the factory software,
this insures no damage to the solenoid is possible even if the switch is overused and /or used outside our recommended parameters.
The will be no issues if the unit is used as suggested in the instructions.
Regards
Stuart Kitto Cheers Bill

[chardo]

MRW82
Hi again mate, Thanks for the breakdown, you did well, but I am not very good at working it all out. I fit spotties and all but I just follow the wiring instructions. I have been looking at some sites that show how relays work and how to wire them up, so I might learn something out of this. I was thinking on the same line as you in not using the Jamies "mom" switch and the extra relay so I can use the engine and lock up for braking with the van in tow. I know that Jamie said all he has to do is hold the button down to keep it locked up, but I feel the switch will suit me better. I have a "auto lock" switch on the way as well. It sounds like what you have. This one is suited to fit straight into the Prado. LeighW has thrown in some good bits, have you had time to check out the voltage to the lock up solenoid and did you end up finding the SCM plug. I have been trying to see if I can find out anything on the Wholesale Automatics kit and what is the yellow resistor in there for. I am wondering if this is what Leigh is saying about having a resistor installed in the wiring. I noticed that Leigh makes the Alternator Voltage Booster fuse for the Prado to help with the battery. My nephew also fitted one of them. Definitely works. I will be getting one in the next week. Thanks Leigh, good one mate. I'd better get going. Hope it all works out. I'll be watching. Cheers Bill. PS has anyone heard from Jamie I would like to hear what he thinks on the new info.

[chardo]

sunny120, Hi, Are you able to email me a copy of the wiring diagram from Wholesaler Automatics lock up kit as well please mate?? I would like to see what they do with their kit. How does it go in your vehicle, are you happy with it.?? I heard they are a bit exxy.$495 + postage. My nephew has one in his 200 series and is very happy. OK here is my email ad. [email protected] Thanks and cheers Bill.

[LeighW]

A couple of other points to consider:

The selector switch may not like switching currents or inductive loads (causes sparks) as
it only normally drives some leads and inputs to the ECU from memory so I would only use
relays with high resistance coils that draw low currents and steer clear of automotive type
relays.

Also as your circuit will be connected to the ECU make sure any relays you use either have
a built in spike suppressor unit, if it doesn't then make sure you put a spike suppressor
diode across the coil.

[MRW82]

You've lost me a bit with the transistor/relay setup Leigh. I am very much an amateur when it comes to electrics, my background is mechanical. To be honest, I'm surprised I managed to come up with that diagram, I used Jamie's diagram to work from and altered it to suit.
But I'm definitely open to suggestions so will try and get my head around your setup suggestion.
As for the voltage, I haven't tested it but will now. It's something I wouldn't have thought of, so thank you. The last thing I want to do is let the smoke out of the wires. That's why I'm asking the questions before I hack into it.

[LeighW]

MRW82,

Just looking at the schematic for the 5 speed, have you measured the operating voltages
applied by the ECU as ECU supplies both negative and positive and the solenoids might not
operate on 12V?

[LeighW]

MRW82,

I don't how much experience you have had with relays, relays can fail for a multitude of reasons such as dirty contacts ie don't make contact, they can stick in the operated condition if left operated for long periods, if relay is intended to be operated for long periods then a relay specified for such applications should be used.

Contacts can also stick due to arcing over many operations, contacts used to switch inductive loads should have some form of "spark quenching" applied.

The chances of the relay coil going open are rare with high quality relays are remote but it
does happen. In generally now days relays are considered unreliable and only used as a cheap means of switching high currents hence why they are still widely used in cars, most other equipment these days uses electronic switching, ie FETS etc.

Another option would be to apply power to a single relay via a transistor that is normally
biased on and use the positive from the selector switch to turn the transistor off and prevent the relay operating. That would allow you to use the one relay again. Another alternative is to use a relay that has a high resistance coil, you could then feed the coil from earth through a resistor and then apply the positive via the isolation diodes to the coil side of the resistor to turn the relay off.

Another option would be to source a relay with two coils, you could then use negative to turn the relay on, the other coil you would wire reverse way around to the first so that operating the selector mechanism causes the second coil to turn on via the diodes which cancels the magnetic field and relay drops out.

I would probably go with option one.

[MRW82]

Bill, I saw that page in the book, but I can't physically find the plugs in the car... Yet.

I'll try and simplify my understanding of how it works:
P/N lockout relay is activated when the shifter is in either P or N, which will stop the main power feed going any further than that relay. The diodes stop power back feeding and illuminating the opposing shifter light.

When the P/N lockout relay is NOT active then the main power feed will flow (when dash switch is on) to the activation relay. Pulling the relay in earths the TC lock solenoid which turns the solenoid on.
When there is no power feed to the activation relay then the factory TCM circuit is complete and the TC lock will act as per normal.

With power on the LO light relay is activated which earths the dash light for the LO indicator of the SCM.


I deleted the brake pedal cutout because I want to be able to use full engine braking on downhill runs when towing, which means I need TC locked when braking. So I opted for an on/off switch rather then a momentary switch with hold in relay. It also simplifies the system quite a bit.

I tow a Suzuki Sierra on a trailer a few times a year (usually over hilly terrain) so this is the main purpose of the TC lock for me. I find the 1kd runs out of breath as the revs rise, which if the TC slips (or if I kick back to 4th to stop TC slip) the revs are out of the peak torque range. If I can keep the revs low it's got the torque to keep pulling like a teenager....

[MRW82]

Leigh, thanks for the feedback. I like your idea of simplifying it down to one relay, although I don't like the idea of a relay failure locking the torque converter ON. Fail safe is a good thing to consider. Does a standard single relay fail in the open position (would the activation relay fail open so the torque converter would just operate as per normal?)

Pin 87 on the LO light relay is (incorrectly) labeled '(earthed) via dash switch illumination' but after posting it up I realised that switch light illumination needs to come from the dash/headlight circuit. So pin 87 will just go to earth.

[chardo]

Im keeping my fingers crossed for you Mark, You have lost me. I noticed that you have deleted the brake relay that Jamie has in. The lock up kit I helped my nephew install didn't have one either. It just had an on off switch in the dash. It would stall his motor if not switched off before stopping.It also had a resister included in the wiring. I don't know what that was for, though they warned that it got quite hot and to place it in a good open spot. The kit was for a Toyota 200 series from Wholesales Automatic transmissions. OK mate Im watching with eyes wide open. Cheers Bill.

[LeighW]

MRW82,

Just a question, why not use a relay with two sets of change over
contacts in place of relays two and three?

Not sure what terminal 87 labeling reads but by rearranging the circuit it would appear
you could get away with one double pole double throw relay instead of three, ie

ie relay is normally operated to prevent lock, this means when in park or neutral
relay operates to restore wiring to normal, on/off switch would also operate relay
to turn off? Down side would be if relay fails then you would have lockup by default.

Cheers
Leigh

[chardo]

Hi Mark, glad you like the bible, I am going to have a good look at your diagram in a minute, but I noticed the SCM the other night while looking around the book. Try looking at Page 12-119,right at the bottom left No. 20- SCM. It is over very close to where the TCM is on Jamies model on the passengers side under the glove box. Cheers Bill

[MRW82]

Got myself a Haynes manual. What a gem of a book. I've sat down and done some research and here's what I've come up with for my setup in the 1kd-ftv. Would like opinion from those in the know if I've missed something or got anything wrong.



NOTE: I have not installed this yet and therefore cannot confirm it works, I am asking for opinions before I give my prado the chop chop.

One other thing in the 1kd-ftv is that the TCM is under the drivers side, between the steering column and the diagnostics plug. Still haven't been able to find the SCM plugs though.....

[MRW82]

Oh ok. Thought you might have a Toyota factory service manual. I'll have to get myself a Haynes. Thanks again.

[chardo]

Hi Mark, The bible is a Haynes Repair manual for Toyota Prado from 1996 to 2009. Includes Series 95 and 120. Petrol and diesel, 4 and V6 cylinders. I bought mine in Repco for $48 a year ago.It tells you anything and everything you need to know about the beasts. Mine goes in the prado wherever we go.
You were asking about hooking the lock up to the "LO" light in the suspension lights. This is in the bible as well. It is the NB wire - Brown/black in the "C" connector, terminal 18. It seems to be in behind the glove box near the transmission plug somewhere.Hope this helps.
I am lost now with the wiring, Hope Jamie has a trick up his sleeve. Cheers Bill.